Footers under new speakers

@buellrider97 

Great choice on the Townsend Podiums. 

Regarding the platforms, your idea of using a butcher block and spiking it will work. I did that on a Turntable setup to isolate the Turntable from external vibration, and I actually heard less rumbling. Just make are you have a Thick enough Butcher block (say 2 inches or more is possible). Then add a set of Iso Pucks for good measure

I would suggest using Gaia Oreas instead of the Isopucks for the Pre-amp. it's tuned for more narrower weight range that your Preamp will fit in. I use the Oreas for my preamp and it help in a cleaner midrange IMO. 

@pindac , Hi , point taken in regards to the resin impregnated MDF. In looking on line I’m not sure what to look for. A specific link or additional info would be appreciated. Here in California I see a couple MDF’s and a green water board. I’m just not sure what I’m looking for. Thanks, Mike B. 

@joeycastillo , Hi thanks for the additional info. I looked at the Orea’s also and see your point. My pre amp has 8 signal tubes and I definitely want to isolate it with large amps and pending subs. I’m planning on being able to shake the house. I plan on putting a lot of effort into isolating my pre and my TT. Probably a lesser cost factor on my power amps. My pre is Rogue Hera II, it’s large with a separate power supply that is usually run stacked. I’m looking at building my rack and considering how to set the Hera. Due to size and heat it will probably be on the top shelf near my TT. I can put it on a platform on top of the shelf. Or I can isolate by something underneath the power supply and adding something between the power supply and the pre above. Then I can go full bore and add 8 tube dampers also. So many choices and it gets expensive.  Gotta love First World Problems , makes me grateful for what I have. Anyway, thanks for your help , Mike B. 

MDF is not the material being suggested.

MDF has a very poor measuring Damping / Dissipation of 0.017. 

0.017 is a value that has a very very little Intrinsic Property to prevent Transferred Amplitude from migrating through the material.

Brands to think about are Panzerholz and Permali.

Look at a Taiko DAIZA Sub Plinth, but to not concern oneself with the rebate pattern that is used in their base of the Board.

The Link showing the Speaker Build shows a method selected as a Sub Support to suspend the Speaker, using a Vibration Control Footer and a Bridging Bar to connect the VC Footers.

A little bot of extra though can really tidy these up aesthetically if one needs to have bling with their equipment.

https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/my-troels-gravesen-the-loudspeaker-3-build.303400/

The Link is showing the designs available from the Producer of the VC Footers seen in use.

https://www.christiegrey.com/industrial/enclosed-spring-mountings/

My suggestion is that if such a methodology is selected, the following can be considered:

1, Look to see if the devices can be attached directly to the Speaker Base, an adapter thread used in place of the bolt on the top of VC Part, can be looked into to see if a Thread Size can be put in place to match a threaded insert found in the base of a Speaker.

2, A Sub Plinth could have 3 x VC Footers attached.

3, If Bridging Bars are wanted to be selected, using metal only is suggested to be avoided. A Composite of materials can be used, that includes a metal.

4, A material such as a Resin Impregnated Densified Wood Board can also be used for the Sub Plinth suggested in '2' or as the Bridging Bar.