Playback Design with Hifi tuning fuse

Huikenny, as I've experimented, it would be better buying some AMR fuses instead.

Best wishes,
Alex Peychev

one MAJOR key is process control during manufacture
Measurement instruments....like for metal thickness, are checked on a regular basis, calibrated regularly and have a gauge R+R study done annually.

ISO standards require the above, so buying from an ISO certified builder is IMO, a Key Requirement.

Once you have a database, turn the math guys loose on it, you can build successful models of most anything. We used modeling extensively in semiconductor manufacture.

I expect fuses to have very regular materials....the right alloy, internal process control and a well-trained workforce working to the build specification.

Go to the littlefuse site and read around for further info. I saw a white-paper there about fuse ratings /

As for a test: It of course makes a huge difference. The test cycle could be anything from stuff like.....10 seconds on @80% fuse rating / 10 seconds off for 1 hour, followed by 'test to destruction'.
The other test cycles I'll leave up to your imagination. I just made that one up.

Huikenny

I had the same problem with my MPS-5, after e-mailing Andreas he recommended a 1.5 - 2.0 amp slow blow.

Rg
Mark

Huikenny,

i have all my fuses replaced for high end ditos (Wadia 381, Barefoot MM27, Rives Audio PARC). Indeed i think it is first now i really benefit from it along with another rather cheap upgrade (Essential audiotools - Noise Eater). All of the fuses are slow blow. Ofcourse you should find the correct fuse(s) for you application, and try to change all of them.
I notice a significant increase in clarity/ transparency. The readability and dynamical contrast are more precisely rendered. I perceive a more lifelike rendition of voices and instruments than before.
I think this is perhaps the cheapest mod we can do.
Don't know if it matters (for you that is!), but this also makes me notice different things with different power chords.