Hi Robert, whether going digital or analog with attenuation it's all really about the impedance matching. Just like having to impedance match your speakers with your amps, you also have to do the same with your source and your amp, if you haven't already. Digital control can be attractive because you don't have anything else to buy, it's already remote controlled and there is nothing, no circuitry or components, being added to the signal path that can to any degree degrade audio performance. The downside is that the digital chip used in in your DAC or player should use at least 32-bit proccessing or, better yet, the newer 64-bit processing now becoming available in order to reliably avoid the sonic pitfall of beginning to lose digital resolution as attenuation is reduced below the standard (for Redbook CD) of 16 bits. So, a 32-bit player can offer 16 db of digital attenuation before reaching the 16-bit level, after which, with further reduction, you begin losing digital resolution. That, at some point, begins to darken the sound and small musical details increasingly begin to fall away from the presentation. This effect becomes harder to perceive as the overall volume level drops however and some have even claimed to have not heard a significant adverse impact on the sound as a result (although, I don't find myself among them). But, 16 db should be enough attenuation for most people and purposes and the 48 db offered by 64-bit chips would be enough for anyone. Analog controls have their own advantages and disadvantages. A big advantage is that you are freed from the restriction of having to pay for high processing power in your source. That fact may also give you a little more leeway when it comes to impedance matching your source and amp before you buy. For an example, I have in mind a product like Scott Endler's Stepped Shunt Attenuators (which, as his site will inform you for performance reasons, you can ONLY use by installing them physically at the inputs of your amp(s), without any cabling between them and the amp). These things use surface mount resistors which I can tell you are very transparent indeed (I've been using a pair for years) and there are only 2 resistors in the signal path per channel at a time - one for the ground and one for the value of attenuation that's being selected. There's even a possible way of adding remote control to the 24-step versions available in a DIY kit from Bent Audio, though it's not particularly cheap, itself. The Endler attenuators are about $200 a pair, still about 1/10th the price of a good and sonically equivalent active preamp. In my rig (a relatively well impedance-matched system from source to speakers) I heard little difference in sound quality going back and forth from the Endlers at -4db attenuation (full output) to removing them and listening to the DAC fed into the amp with no attenuation whatsoever (on the same quietly recorded CD's). Only a faint reduction in the silkiness of the highs was the only difference that test has revealed to me, but, again, and I can't stress this enough - impedance matching when going preampless is everything, so take your time with that part and it will reward you well with the rest of it, either way.
DAC/Pre's Digital attenuation vs. analog
Hello
I'm trying to decide whether to buy a W4S DAC2 and use the digital preamp, or to get the DAC1 with a separate component preamp (such as a Bryston BP25). I don't care all that much about the cost; just performance.
What are the advantages/disadvantages of going either way?
(I'm also considering a Benchmark HDR or USB).
I'm trying to decide whether to buy a W4S DAC2 and use the digital preamp, or to get the DAC1 with a separate component preamp (such as a Bryston BP25). I don't care all that much about the cost; just performance.
What are the advantages/disadvantages of going either way?
(I'm also considering a Benchmark HDR or USB).
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- 34 posts total
- 34 posts total