$800 Cartridge Shootout and Upgrade Path



I am putting together an analog system, starting with the cartridge. I like a well-balanced sound with a slightly lush midrange and excellent extension at the frequency extremes. The cartridge should be a reasonably good tracker. Here are my choices:

1. Dynavector Karat 17D MkII
2. Shelter 501
3. Sumiko Black Bird
4. Grado Statement Master
5. Clearaudio Virtuoso Wood

Which one comes closest to my wish list? Which one would you choose?

Here are the upgrade cartridges to the above list, one of which would be purchased later:

1. Shelter 901
2. Benz Micro L2
3. Grado Statement Reference
4. Koetsu Black

Which one comes closest to my wish list? Which one would you choose?

Now, which turntable/tonearm combination (for new equipment up to $4,500) would you choose to handle a cartridge from the first group and the upgrade cartridge from the second group?

Any help you can provide is greatly welcomed. Thanks!
artar1
It might be a good idea if I provide the source of the information regarding the effective mass of the tonearm to be used with the Grado cartridge that I have mentioned in this thread. The information came from a question that I had asked on the Vinyl Asylum about the compatibility of using the Grado Statement Master with an Audio Quest tonearm. This was one of the responses I received:

In Reply to: Grado Statement Master with Audio Quest PT-9 Extreme Tonearm posted by Artar1 on August 17, 2004 at 20:21:45:

The Master requires an arm having 12-16g effective mass. This was told to me by both John Grado (in person) and their head designer (phone). I have my Master on a Moerch UP-4 arm with the heavy armtube, which is an excellent mate for the Grado. You should ascertain the effective mass of the Audio Quest arm.

Please keep in mind that I did not call Grado to verify.
Hmmm, maybe I'll visit CA and borrow your scissors and soldering iron. We could always test on the Encounter! ;-)

Please do let us know when everything arrives and you've got it spinning. Take care with the Teres bearing assembly BTW. That's about the only step where it's easy to do damage to the TT. Once it's together it's about as set-and-forget as a TT can be.

Dougdeacon,

You are always welcome at any time! October is a good month in Tracy. It will be ninety degrees today, but it's a dry heat! And while you're here, don't forget to visit the Livermore Valley wineries, if you're into wine. It's fun and not too expensive. Then there's Yosemite and Carmel, although these two destinations are not exactly a stone's throw away! (I sound like an ad in a travel magazine.)

I will let you know when everything arrives. The biggest hang-up now is the money. I have two thousand saved, and more is on the way, but my calculations indicate I will need three thousand more, plus money for the phono stage. Man, this in one expensive hobby! : > (

Not only will I have to be careful about setting up the bearing assembly for the Teres, there is also the finishing phase. While I know the Teres web site claims only a couple of hours are needed, I think this estimate is a little unrealistic. It make take the Teres craftsmen (craftswomen) only a couple of hours, but for someone like myself, it will take longer, maybe a couple of days. When I get the turntable, I will recount my entire experience here, along with any tips about finishing and detailing.

By the way, I recalculated the resonance frequency of the ZYX R-100FS for the OL Encounter and found it to be 10.5 Hz, which is nearly ideal according to Van den Hull.

While I am waiting for the Teres turntable, I will be doing two things: 1) buying more vinyl and 2) attempting to design and build an isolation platform for the Teres. This project will hone my wood finishing skills.

As you are probably aware, commercially available isolation platforms can be quite expensive. I have seen one or two that cost more than a thousand. I think that I can build one for a lot less, maybe only a couple of hundred. Why so much? Well, I plan to use two layers of laminated hardwood, which is not cheap, and I will need to either buy or rent some furniture clamps. After the wood has been cut to shape, I will need to figure out what damping material to use between the hardwood layers. Some have suggested Bubble Wrap to create a poor man's air bladder. While this is an intriguing idea, there are two issues with this approach: 1) it will be somewhat difficult to level the Bubble Wrap because it is not perfectly flat; 2) the Bubble Wrap may deteriorate, or breakdown, over time. My solution is to use sand, and to place the two hardwood layers in a pre-made hardwood box that will accommodate the two layers. Sand is very cheap, easy to use, and will not breakdown. As far as I know, it's a great sound-absorbing material and is easy to level. The only problem I can see is how to keep it perfectly sealed between the various hardwood layers. Maybe I could use some high-quality clear caulking that carries a 20-year warranty as a sealant? I will post more on this later.

For those of you who already have a turntable, you might try what I am visualizing:

1. A hardwood box could be used that has dovetail miter-box corners. It needs to be deep enough and large enough to accommodate the two layers of the "floating hardwood" upon which the turntable will be placed. Naturally the top portion of the box will be open. Only the bottom and sides need to be constructed.

2. Sand could be placed on the bottom of the box, and the first hardwood layer placed and leveled on top of the sand. Caulking could then be applied to seal the sand. We don't want that material getting into the turntable bearing assembly.

3. More sand could be place on top of the first hardwood layer, followed by the second hardwood layer and caulking.

4. The bottom of the box can be equipped with high-quality metal cones, preferably brass. Underneath the cones one could place pucks from Black Diamond Racing.

Obviously I have not worked out all the details, but if anyone has comments they would like to make, please share them.

A couple of people have written to me privately about the current thread. In one message, a concern was voiced about the Moerch not be suitable with the ZYX. I wrote back explaining that the Moerch would be a great match, at least in theory, because I have not tried the combination. Here is what I wrote:

There's probably no misunderstanding at all! Moerch tonearms are great, and not only that, have a wonderful aesthetic appeal, which I find nearly irresistible. And with their interchangeable arm wands, they make a brilliant choice for many analog front ends.

If I were to choose the Michelle Gyro SE or Eurolab turntable, my choice of tonearm would be the Moerch DP-6. With the Teres 245, the Origin Live Encounter may have a slight advantage in creating the best synergy. The emphasis here is "slight." Moreover, there was a discussion in the thread regarding the effects of continuous versus non-continuous tonearm cabling, with the idea that continuous cabling may be preferable in many situations. While I grasp the significance of this assertion, my counter idea is that for some of us, myself included, we may not be able to detect any difference, at least at first. But there are a number of audiophiles who have listened very deeply into the quality of their systems over a long period of time. These people are not casual listeners, and have developed a considerable intimacy and knowledge of all the components in their setup in the same way that some of us have come to know the deepest aspects of ourselves. This knowing is a process that takes time and experience. Under these circumstances, I believe, it does become possible to distinguish the type of cable used, continuous versus non-continuous, and to form a definite preference for the former. I believe I will become one of these audiophiles because it is not uncommon for me to spend hours at a time listening to each and every note of a piano sonata or the ebb and flow of the melodious intermixing of instruments that make up many of the symphonies of the Classical Period.

Under $2,000, there are only a few tonearms that really look and sound great. The Moerch is certainly one of them. In my situation, I am trying to maximize price performance, not only for reasons of cost, but because of my own minimalist outlook toward life. Someone else might have a much different approach to vinyl and tonearms, in which case the Moerch would be the ideal solution. After all Paul Seydor and Robert Green of TAS loved the Moerch when it was paired with the Eurolab.
Hmmm, you're in Tracy? I'm in the South Bay. When/if Doug wanders out this way, don't forget to look me up, too!