Do you think you need a subwoofer?

Raul,and other interested folks,if the main speakers can support a certain low frequency,before rolling off,it will be best to bring in the sub at just under this point.
EX:if the main speaker(my Ascents for example)are giving in room response to about 35hz,experiment with the sub crossover point just below that.Maybe coming in at around thirty hz.This MUST be played around with,as the room/placement will affect sound.
I believe the lower sub setting is definitely BEST here,because even though we cannot hear the main speaker low cut off point in exact terms,it still has some output beneath our perceptions(due to room loading).So we do not want the sub to overlap this,or you get a thickening of sound.Also,keep the gain setting LOW!!Too many sub owners try to go overboard with bass volume.You want the stage to open up,releasing depth and a wealth of high freq detail.NOT bloat!This is masked if the sub is not placed in room,and set PERFECT!It can take time,but is well worth the effort.
Many current sub models can be integrated very well to almost any decent speaker.It is a far better way to get a nice speaker upgrade(financially),rather than selling the main speaker,taking a huge loss,and buying new.Providing one has a very good main speaker.One reason why I have kept my "incredible"(should be spelled with capital letters)Avalon Ascent MK-II's.Just add a good sub,and these Gems still amaze,with a huge stage presentation,and detail in abundance.The business of diamond driver/Berrylium technology,though fine, kind of loses meaning when these speakers are given todays best supporting componentry! Just my two cents worth.
Hope this makes sense.It works,for me.
Best!

In the golden age of vinyl playback (1965-1985 or so), subwoofers were practically unknown. And yet, my LP playback system uses little Mirage Omnisat satellites and a matching LF-150 150w 10" sub. These sats have the advantages of being linear down to 70 Hz and a power handling rating of 175w each. I think using a small, musical sub is the best-kept secret in vinyl playback.

First of all, we're all familiar with the advantages of mini-monitors and small speakers--the small front baffle makes for great imaging and the small size avoids most of the cabinet resonances that plague larger speakers. Second, a good sat/sub setup makes it easier to iron out anomalies that often plague vinyl playback.

My turntable setup seemed to increase the sensitivity to a 100 Hz in-room hump. All I had to do is lower the adjustable crossover point on the sub and it was fixed.

In system tuning, optimizing full-range speakers (let alone minimonitors) for imaging *and* bass response can drive you crazy. A sub enables you to tune for both. It also helps to compensate for mastering deficiencies. Some LPs have thin bass; I can goose it with the sub. OTOH, some LPs have rumble. I can dial that out with a sub as well, without affecting the response curve where the music is.

Matching a sub to a room and to satellites can be difficult too, but I've so far successfully optimized three different Mirage subs to three entirely different rooms and rigs. Their speed and natural musicality combined with adjustable crossover range, phase, and volume control make it relatively easy.

I not only do not need a sub for music but I removed it from home theater, the VMPS with outboard cross-over and a high power Caver amp with gain control for the woofers is all I need, Organ notes no problem. They claim usable bass down 10db at 16hz, I dunno what I am getting in my room but whatever it is...........its all I need.

Dear Eldartford: +++++ " My point is that the crossover electronics should permit the frequency to be easily changed, and one should not be afraid to adjust it as freely as the volume control. " +++++

I respect your point of view and certainly any one is free to make about what any one think is better for achieve the quality performance that are nearest to its music sound reproduction priorities.

My point of view is a " little " different from yours: I don't like to use the subwoofers ( crossover/volume ) like a continnuous " bass equalizer ". My first target is to obtain the best quality sound reproduction from my main speakers lowering the Intermodulation Distortion through let it them free to reproduce frequencies from 60Hz and lower and my second target is to obtain a better quality bass performance through a dedicated/specialty audio item ( subwoofer ) and to obtain ( too ) a lower bass response.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.

Rauliruegas...At first I took the same approach as you, (and everyone else it seems) and I tried to find the a frequency for "best quality sound reproduction". I never seemed to get it right. It took me many years to realize why: there is no one best X/O frequency, at least for my system. It depends on the kind of music being played. I do not use the X/O frequency as a tone control. I have my system tweeked up so that there is no audible or measurable (RTA) change when I sweep the frequency. But with music that has heavy LF the six 12" and 15" subwoofer cones have the "punch" that folks say is missing in Maggies.