Tri planar and shelter 901 and Verdier


Hello

I have to set up my new Tri Planar with my Shelter 901 next week, do you have some advice for me?

I have seen on a notice that there is some silicone furnished with the tonearm, in wich case must I use it ?

If you also have advices to set the Tri planar properly on a Verdier they would be welcome.

André
tenmus
DougDeacon, when you refer to setting the pivot-to-spindle distance after mounting the arm are you suggesting that the jig is just close or is this just a check that the distance is correct? The instructions don't seem to suggest that such and adjustment is necessary if the jig is used. Still, I could see this being very easy with a pivoting armboard.

Actually, Greg, the installation is very straight forward. The mounting jig is very simple and almost fool proof. A picture would be self-explanatory but I've not played around with posting pictures here. Depending on one's mechanical aptitude and tool availability it should be less than an hour of work even with tapping the holes. But I do agree that if one is not sure experienced help should be sought out. Either way I think it would be wise to understand the process.
Sorry Dan I have made a confusion, my question was adressed to Doug.

In fact I want precisions because It seemed to me that if the tonearm is mounted correctly on the arm board ( with the jig) wich Doug describes as the first step, the second step ( find the pivot- to spindle distance) is automatically fixed by the first step???

Isn'it???

Thanks Doug
Yes, I'm curious about that statement as well since the instructions don't mention that as a next step after mounting with the jig.
Dan, I have installed an arm on my sota star and on my vpi aries 2. but both times the arm board was pre-drilled. While drilling a hole seems easy,even if done correctly it can look ugly. I never do anything myself unless I can afford to replace it if I screw up. My Sme IV slides back and forth on a a sled. So if you are off a little it's okay.

When dealing with components like these the measurements should be as tight as possible.

I agree that if you have reasonable handyman skills you should be okay. Take your time. As carpenters say measure twice cut once.

The tri planar remains at the top of wish list.
Hi Greg,

I know exactly what you mean and I don't want to imply that this task should be taken up with nothing more than an electric drill and some large felt markings. But if one has the capability to mark the positions using the jig and center punch, then drill and tap the holes on a stationary drill press it does become a standard milling operation.

I've been looking closer at the supplied jig and it is quite possible that one could be off by a millimeter either way. The jig's manufacture is fairly precise but there is enough play that could lead to some small error in placement. This would make it quite important to be as exacting as possible when mounting on a fixed armboard. As you say, measure twice (and perhaps thrice) and drill once. With pivoting armboards this tolerance is a bit more forgiving as the jig will probably get you to within a millimeter. Then the fine adjustment could be made with slight movement of the armboard much the same way as the SME slide works. While true that the pivot is traveling in an arch, in the limit of a few millimeters this should be of no consequence. This may be what Doug was referring to when he mentions measuring the distance after mounted and it would make perfect sense to do so.

But he's teasing us with his silence! Probably out fighting the mall-ites.