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Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II

“For those who want the moon but can't afford it or those who can afford it but like to have fun and work with their hands, I'm willing to give out a recipe for a true high-end 'table which is easy to do, and fun to make as sky's the limit on design/creativity! The cost of materials, including 'table, is roughly $200 (depending, more or less), and add to that a Rega tonearm. The results are astonishing. I'll even tell/show you how to make chipboard look like marble and fool and impress all your friends. If there's interest I'll get on with this project, if not, I'll just continue making them in my basement. The next one I make will have a Corian top and have a zebra stripe pattern! Fun! Any takers?”

The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04

Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
mario_b
bornin50
32 posts
 
Hi Goughary,

Nice to hear about the double SME, glad it worked out.

I would not want to cut an L70, I reserve that for the much more common 75. The AT could have been made for it, that was a lucky day for me!

http://www.freewebs.com/bornin50-3/index.htm

If you check out the L70 + AT1005 page, that's the first pic of my combo. The L70 is a favourite of mine, and that one is my control deck to see if my experiments on the other Lencos have any worth.

The AT1005 was popular in the early 70s, and usually paired up with motor units from Garrard etc.. A version was fitted as standard to the Leak 2001, but good luck finding one of those.

You are looking for an arm with effective length around 240mm, that puts the spindle to pivot at about 225mm. Most arms of that length are the studio units from yesteryear, EMT etc.

With a bit of filing the Regas or ADC variants can fit and are more readily available, although the problem of correct vta will always be a problem with Regas if the corner stays.

Regards
billybuck
2 posts
 
Mosin, I for one am chomping at the bit for details on your idler arm mods. My Lenco has been sidelined for several months now due to a wobbling wheel. The wheel itself appears true, and the motor spindle doesn't feel bent or off-center when I apply mild finger pressure to it as it spins. The idler arm appears to be the culprit, which isn't surprising because I've bent it everywhichway trying to get the arm and wheel spindle straight. When I do manage to get rid of the wobble, the tension washer slips over time and I start to get a clicking sound as the wheel rotates. I can feel the "click" in the idler arm, so I'm pretty sure it's transferring to the platter. I've been thinking of threading the end of the spindle and applying a locknut as I've seen on some idlers, but haven't found the right threading tool yet.
oregon
813 posts
 
Billybuck,
Why don't you just buy another arm? There is usually one on ebay.
Might make life easier???
ksgibbens
5 posts
 
It's almost finished and thought I would share a picture
Kim
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n219/ksgibbens/Lenco2.jpg
mgreene
107 posts
 
Pretty sweet! The woodworking appears flawless. You have to love tung oil.

Mike
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