Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II


“For those who want the moon but can't afford it or those who can afford it but like to have fun and work with their hands, I'm willing to give out a recipe for a true high-end 'table which is easy to do, and fun to make as sky's the limit on design/creativity! The cost of materials, including 'table, is roughly $200 (depending, more or less), and add to that a Rega tonearm. The results are astonishing. I'll even tell/show you how to make chipboard look like marble and fool and impress all your friends. If there's interest I'll get on with this project, if not, I'll just continue making them in my basement. The next one I make will have a Corian top and have a zebra stripe pattern! Fun! Any takers?”

The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04

Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
mario_b
Hey Ronnie, small world!! I know I am loving the sound of this amp more and more, due as well to some 'table/tonearm/cartridge rolling I was doing yesterday. I'd love it if you contacted him and got me some more info/opinions on this amp!! But, to get to the RS for now. My own RS-A1 has no ground scheme whatsoever that I can see, so no screw/stability problem. With my Denon DL-103"E" there is no hum whatsoever in spite of this, but with my moving-iron AKG P8ES there was indeed some hum. But a caveat: the RS-A1 is in the back corner, so the headshell travels directly over the motor, I don't know if there would be any hum in the other position.

Did I ever mention that I find the Rega RB-300 to be one of the Greatest Bargains in Audio History ;-)?!? Yesterday I had fun playing tonearm/cartridge swappies on my two 'tables (B75 Bogen-Lenco and Garrard 301 grease-bearing), and having recently acquired a new Rega RB-300 to replace the old one (which I traded mounted on my old Ode to the Denon for equipment a while back), I re-wired it with my usual recipe of Cardas internal wiring and Music Boys (I LOVE this recipe!!). Anyway, I had constructed a special armboard for this tonearm for the Garrard 301, and mounted the Ortofon Jubilee to it. What sound greeted my ears!! For years I used the Kiseki Blue on the RB-300 on my Lenco, and then my Kiseki Purpleheart, and never did the Rega let me down, sounding powerful, incredibly detailed and blindingly dynamic, and yet "honest", in the sense of tonally correct and with dynamics in their proper proportion (like the more-expensive JMW tonearms).

Again yesterday it freshly blew me away with Ortofon's current statement MC. Never have I heard Marianne Faithful's brilliant Broken English LP sound so perfect, so mesmerizing, so amazing, as if it were the product of careful and expensive recording, transference and vinyl!! But nope, just a garden-variety commercial LP available for a few bucks used. Didn't know it was THAT good sonically, run to the nearest store and get yourselves copies! Also never have I heard this LP on a Giant plinth, or with a cartridge of this stature. I heartily recommend the Rega for ALL idler-wheel drives (including, of course, the Garrards), there is definitely a synergy between it and idlers, almost as if, like the Koetsus, the Regas were designed on idlers :-). As I've written before, once I'm done playing with all these other tonearms, I'll likely end up with solely a Rega.

And speaking of incredible bargoons, a fellow audiophile was here yesterday, and clearly heard the supremacy of the Denon DL-103 at PRaT, timing, it being the only cartridge so far to generate the full power of the Kundalini Effect (which is not to say that there aren't perhaps some others out there that can achieve this). Mounted on the RS-A1, it has detail to rival the best, and a lack of hardness due to the RS-A1's swivelling headshell, which pretty well eliminates tracing error. The Denon DL-103 should be dissected and examined to see what makes it tick, and the lessons applied to all new MC designs, but no, it's too cheap, and so is not taken as seriously as it should be, it being assumed the more expensive materials of more expensive cartridges will address all issues (wrong). Of course, there are all sorts of flavours of Greatness, from the Grados' supreme gestalt, through the Ortofon's supreme evenness and balance (combining a large portion of the Denon's energy and PRaT with state of the art tonal perfection and detail), and so on, it's a complicated and fascinating old world, glad I have multiple 'tables and tonearms!! Vive la Vinyl Fun!!
I did a little research and am not so sure this guy made the mkIII version. Perhaps the mark I.
Anyway, if you'd like to ask him something about Audio Innovations you can try contacting member "Erik Andersson" on this forum: http://www.hififorum.nu/forum/default.asp

Don't know if I explained so well.. that screw (if your RS-A1 has one) is on the underside of the arm base, and is only an internal connection between arm "pillar" and base I think. Not for connecting an external ground wire to the phono stage.
Hi Ronnie, no, there is no little screw interfering with the flush-mounting of my RS-A1, it is affixed flush using two-way tape with no problem on my arm-board. Perhaps they took care of that in their later models. Oh well on the AI 800 count, nevertheless, it is sounding glorious!! As it should, given it is being driven by idler-wheel drives :-). Now I'll play with the Lenco/Morch/Decca!!
Ol' Jean has moved uptown with his tonearms. I'm impressed - perhaps one day we will all have an address at the Tony Arms. Get it, huh, huh??? :0)

Well, I finally got my L59 set up in the new room and once again I am struck at how not-real cee dee counds in comparison - and Ray Price was sounding mighty fine on CD. Threw on the first record I laid eyes on, Miles / Nefertiti and was blown away with the natural timbres and timing.

In a related story, I am setting up my Garrard 401 and once again am confronted with the (slightly) bent eddy brake disk. It is enough to make the plinth vibrate so you can feel it through your finger tips. If anybody knows where to get a replacement or has other advise, please respond. At this point, I am going to dismantle and try to finesse it back into shape with my fine adjustment tool (hammer).

Mike
On the 401 the eddy current disc should run true to avoid generating vibration, because the braking magnet is only on one side of the disc. The 301 magnetic brake is a horse-shoe shaped affair with the magnetic force transferred from the magnet itself via the two "legs" of the horseshoe, which "straddle" the eddy current disc so that if the disc wobbles a little, the effect is minimized: as the disc moves toward one "leg" it moves away from the other and vibration cancels out.

Good luck with straightening the disc on your 401. Very occasionally someone will "part-out" a 401 and sell the parts on E***.