If I've got rust in the motor should I just bail out now? I started cleaning up an L75 I bought through an ebay auction and I wasn't too happy to see rust and corrosion spots underneath. When I opened the motor up there was rust inside and rust where the plug wires connect. It spins fine but I'd just like to know if this is a really bad sign.
Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II
“For those who want the moon but can't afford it or those who can afford it but like to have fun and work with their hands, I'm willing to give out a recipe for a true high-end 'table which is easy to do, and fun to make as sky's the limit on design/creativity! The cost of materials, including 'table, is roughly $200 (depending, more or less), and add to that a Rega tonearm. The results are astonishing. I'll even tell/show you how to make chipboard look like marble and fool and impress all your friends. If there's interest I'll get on with this project, if not, I'll just continue making them in my basement. The next one I make will have a Corian top and have a zebra stripe pattern! Fun! Any takers?”
The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04
Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04
Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
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Hi Leisual: if the Lenco is working fine, then buy some rust solvent and clean the Lenco up and go through with it. The cleaning up part will be more work, bt in the end it will be stellar. Apparently tea is an excellent rust solvent: TEA. Hi Mike, the disc MUST be utterly flat or it's not worth the effort (too much vibration/noise). The other option is a variac with which you can adjust the voltage/speed and remove the offending disc completely. Do as Gene suggests and wait for a spare on ePay, as a variac will reduce torque, and Torque is Sacred. |
Crem, take it as an attack if you are that defensive. YOU seemed to be saying that folks at NASA were testing the efficacy of steam cleaning vinyl records. No? If they were doing this as part of a taxpayer funded activity, I consider it a waste of money. If you are just talking about people who happen to work at NASA who are doing some sort of home testing, I'd only ask, so what? That's all. |
A typical 401 runs fast without the magnetic brake, so if you remove it, you need to reduce the turntable's speed. Other than a variac which reduces torque and motor RPM (and thus motor inertia) another way to alter the speed downward so it's accurate is to CAREFULLY turn down the step on the motor pulley. You can do this with a small metalworking file as the motor and pulley spin, checking frequently to see how the speed is being affected. I'd stop when you reach around 0.3% fast. Do all this when the motor is fully warmed up; it will run slow at first when you turn it on cold (probably still within 1%) but will speed back up as it warms up. Since the motor will be spinning at close to 1800 rpm as you work on it, the end result will be perfectly concentric. I'd recommend buying a replacement pulley from one of the vendors on E*** selling new ones, grinding it down, and keeping your original in a safe place. |
Thanks for the replies guys. Ebay it is - maybe I'll try Loricraft too. GP49 - this is a replacement pulley - I have the parts for Imbabi's power supply but never built it because I was bummed out by the shipping damage described. DHL has not been very nice to me. Yes Jean, I read the opinions where the disk is considered necessary to get the full Garrard PRAT. Leisual, be careful about getting solvent on the motor windings - if you melt the insulation the coil will probably short. Mike |
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