Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II


“For those who want the moon but can't afford it or those who can afford it but like to have fun and work with their hands, I'm willing to give out a recipe for a true high-end 'table which is easy to do, and fun to make as sky's the limit on design/creativity! The cost of materials, including 'table, is roughly $200 (depending, more or less), and add to that a Rega tonearm. The results are astonishing. I'll even tell/show you how to make chipboard look like marble and fool and impress all your friends. If there's interest I'll get on with this project, if not, I'll just continue making them in my basement. The next one I make will have a Corian top and have a zebra stripe pattern! Fun! Any takers?”

The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04

Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
mario_b
Hi all, up here I've been having continuing Adventures in Idler-ing, of course, AND human nature, which is to say, the blindness of prejudice. But first, back to the roots. Recently I re-fixed up an Elac Miracord 40 MKII, a lovely Art Deco beauty with round buttons and a Magic Stacker ;-), built to the exacting - and simple and durable - Elac standards, which is why they are my favourite record changers).

I've often recommended it and I recommend it again: those who are sitting on the fence wondering if there is something after all to the whole Idler thing should find an Elac record changer (Listener magazine once ran an article on just such a restoration), or if a bit more ambitious, a Dual or Garrard SP-25 (MKIII or higher), which are more complex and less durable machines. When one is sitting with no large experience of record players hearing a Giant 80-pound Beast/Idler, then one can ascribe what one is hearing to all sorts of things (like, for instance, that a $30K belt-drive would be even better, and so both miss the point, AND make a likely erroneous assumption) and so remain unconvinced. But, if a confirmed Belt-Driver hears a little, humble Elac, Garrard SP-25, or Dual idler, properly restored, tweaked and tuned, THEN to what can one ascribe what one is hearing: something well beyond the abilities of a rather expensive and well-known belt-drive? One can't point to mass, or to some sort of Super Bearing, or any of a host of other possibilities.

In effect, one of these little spuds is exactly what prompted my own "religious" conversion to the Idler Faith, Brothers and Sisters. Had I first heard instead a Garrard 301 in a birch-ply plinth, would the conversion have been so total and absolute? I don't know. I likely would have gone idler (as already I valued PRaT and dynamics above all else), but I would also perhaps not have drawn the conclusion that the idler-wheel system was superior to the belt, at least not immediately. But, faced with a little itty-bitty Garrard SP25 MKIII (these have superb motors btw), which I had restored, and set against a background of highly-regarded belt-drives (Maplenoll, Audiomeca), I KNEW I was hearing something superior to both, and considering the engineering and build quality, the ONLY thing which could be responsible was the drive system. And the fellow who picked up the Elac today, and heard it for a few moments, had a similar reaction.

Which is a roundabout way to say, yet again, to those sitting on the fence seeking Musical Knowledge, dig up one of these old, cheap, common idlers, lovingly restore it, put a decent cartridge on it (give it a fair shake, today's Elac was mounted with an NOS Grado 8MZ, a VERY serious MM), and plug'er in and let'er rip. And prepare for Enlightenment.

Getting back into the Ultra-High-End, I just finished the restoration from junk of a butchered Lenco G88, which was not only spray-painted black with the irremovable paint from Hell (I finally had to have it bead-blasted), but also had a toasted speed control and on-off switch. The plastic trim cover was also spray-painted and, being plastic, couldn't be bead-blasted, so I had to fabricate a substitute from MDF, devise new switches, and have the extra pieces, along with the Lenco and platter proper, re-coated in cream polyurethane paint. The plinth, a two-armed affair for an OL Silver and a JMW Signature, is finished in blue lacquer, finished to a mirror finish (called "polishing the polish"), very expensive,m good thing I wasn't paying for it all! But nevertheless, a prototype for the Cypriot seafoam-green-and-cream Review Lenco, based on an L75. It'll be under my "system," and, of course, it sounds astounding (the recipient currently uses a Wilson Benesch Circle, which has caused him aural pain ever since he first heard the Lenco in the Wyetech Labs system). The fellow's system consists of top-of-the-line Wyetech electronics and Coincident Victory speakers. I thought I'd NEVER finish this project!! Tomorrow night I go over with the Lenco for a few hours of listening and, of course, a bout of Crush the Belt-Drive yippee!!!

Speaking of Crush the Belt-Drive (and Direct Drive), I still receive occasional e-mails from the erstwhile PLatine Verdier owner (and Cain & Cain 301 owner) that the Giant single-plinth Diect Coupled Garrard 301 blows him away, and the owner of the EMT signs himself The Lenco Man. Those looking for that Final Turntable are foolish to ignore the Mighty Idler, and time will prove me right (as it already is as I climb and conquer the Ladder of Belt-Drive - and Direct Drive - being).

In other news, my distributor of, among other things, high-end belt-drives, has just received his second Lenco (the first for his home, the second to help demonstrate his other wares). HERE's a fellow who can rise above his prejudices!: though he distributes high-end belt-drives, he is totally enthusiastic about the Lencos. Meanwhile, another fellow who came to audition the Maplenoll is precisely the opposite (and relatively destitute): upon entering my listening room, he saw the Lenco and said "Oh, an idler, it's OK if that's your thing". I didn't want to play the Lenco, as I knew he would come to the erroneous conclusion the Maplenoll sucked (instead of the correct one that the Lenco/Idler is Mighty).

A friend of mine was in the room, in fact the erstwhile owner of the Maplenoll, who was still wondering if the Lenco was really that much better (he had never compared them in an A/B, and the Maplenoll truly is an excellent belt-drive), and heard the Maplenoll and was impressed. Meanwhile, the fellow was going on about idlers rumbling and being only "for certain tastes", and seeing that he wasn't serious about the Maplenoll and it was a waste of time (the Hell with it), I turned on the Lenco, played the same record (some Art of Noise), and said "Here's your rumble". The background was silent, but more than that, the increase in bass, dynamics, detail, imaging, in fact everything everywhere, was shocking. My friend was sitting there in shock. As to the fellow, water off a duck's back, he was deaf to the whole thing, or decided the Maplenoll was crap, and walked out as if nothing had happened. Invincible prejudice/stupidity. This type of prejudice only ensures limitations: such a person will always miss the possibilities and wallow in mediocrity and mistaken assumptions. So be it.

Meanwhile, my friend, who was luke-warm before, is now clamoring for a Giant Direct Coupled Lenco, and is utterly converted. The moral of the story is: Prejudice leads to deafness in audio and aural unhappiness.

Enjoy your Idlers all, May the Wheel Be With You!! Time to get back to the shop and do my final run: the Cypriot Lenco.
Hi,
I finally got my Lenco and I am salivating heavily on what happens next :)) I reread all the posts and all the forums and most of the ideas are set but I wanted to ask about the dimensions of the Giant Lenco plinth. I had decided to make it the classic 23X19X6 but it seems that later Lencos are even bigger-can you guys give me an idea of how big is actually enough, I am planning to go for the BB/MDF combination and may be later I will try an oak plinth or a mixture of woods just to have fun, woodworking is an addictive hobby. I had the unbelievable chance of getting a great offer from John Nilsen at Audioorigami.co.uk for a fully tweaked RB250-polished, adjusted and even with a small weight added to headshell to perfectly match my Denon 103, rewired and with three rear counterweights!!! I am stunned by the looks and he is known for great expertese so I really cannot wait to get it! Any advice on how to mount the arm and what I should take into consideration is greatly appreciated, I am new to vynil and everyhting is very helpful. Thanks to everyone on this forum, life is not the same since Lenco came into the light :)
Hi Kravi4ka...

Welcome to the Brotherhood ! You know, the real answer to your question "How BIG is big enough ?" is answered with another question: "How much weight can YOU stand to live with ?".

I recently finished a Monster-Class plinth of BB/MDF, and with platter installed it weighs in at 87 lbs. In the beginning, I had mad dreams of 100+ lbs, but Jean cautioned me against building something that could cause personal injury in years to come (after all, this is a TT-for-Life !). The final result is now just managable, with the platter removed.

The panels began as 23" x 20", with a total weight of approximately 90 lbs. Many saw & router cuts later, the 11 layers (wood alone) weighed 74 lbs. With something that thick, you'll find it convenient to make removable armboards... which also opens the door to experimenting with various materials for mounting your RB250. I have maple boards right now, but "soon" will be making alternate boards from walnut & something that seems to be ebony.

You didn't mention which Lenco model you have. Depending on the geometry of top plate and platter, you may decide to cut the corner of the top plate, or rotate the unit 90 degrees, as seen in many of the recent Monsters Lencos here, and on other Lenco boards.

In any event, you'll need to think (and measure, measure, measure) to get your RB250 in the right position for "correct" VTA (and remember to account for the size of the Denon 103). One advantage of individual armboards is you get to make them in the appropriate thickness for proper VTA.

Good luck with your planning, and keep us informed on your progress.
Cheers...
Grant
Hi Gjwaudio,

Thanks for the response, that's what I was looking for.I have actually two Lencos-L75 and an L78, the latter is in better shape but both are supposed to be totally rebuilt and I have already ordered the oilite bushings, the Joel kit from e-bay and a bunch of ceramic balls to try on the bearing. I will just rotate the base and I plan to glass reinforce it and seal the hole of the oroginal arm. There comes the difficult part-the arm bord. I see all kinds of shapes of boards on e-bay-rectangular, kidney shapes and round ones, I have several exotic woods to try such as sandalwood, padouk, panga panga, and of course oak and cherry. I will have to calculate how tall it should be and how to attach it to the plinth... But the VTA is the real problem, I still haven't found "Arm setting for Dummies" and if you can help me with a link or something it would be great. Thanks for the answer again, I intend to make the work as precise as possible with a lot of pictures that might help people like me. Best regards from Bulgaria!
Hi Kravi4ka,

Does your modified Rega 250 have any added VTA adjustments or is it stock & static?
If your Rega is in the original fixed version with only washers for height adjustments, then you’ll probably want your armboard about 1/8” below flush of the top plinth layer. I say “probably”, because I have a mounted Rega 300 and I’m assuming that the pillar/tube height mounting geometry is the same on the 250.
With mine mounted flush to the plinth without washer, the tube is horizontal with a generic height AT mm cartridge. But I don’t think this is optimal, because someone once wrote here many moons ago, (think it was Willbewill) that a Rega engineer said that these arms are optimal with their butts dragging a bit. But many things can throw minute variances into the VTA formula – cart height, platter mat thickness, the number of bearing thrust shims, MuMetal treatment, etc. Then there’s the question whether you’ll use something to isolate the armboard from the plinth or not. Some use plastic washers, others use rubber grommets and still others directly mount.

But my advise would be to plan for VTA and armboards, but don’t sweat it too much. By making multiple armboards of various thickness and flavors of wood (this stuff is freebie scrap at most lumber yards) you’ll give yourself room to experiment. The only hardwood I’ve heard spoken about negatively for this application is oak. Linn armboards are plywood – probably nicely laminated – but plywood nevertheless.

Maybe Stefanl who has helped me out with Rega issues will weigh in here.

All best,
Mario