Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II

Hi guys,
It really is a great forum, I feel like I have friends here! I got the answers for my worries, truth is that this is really helpful, I spent so much time on forums that I obviously missed the important details and you saved my life. I plan to make at least two plinths, and I think I will start with a one that is entirely made of BB, it's going to be a truly giant one-now I am thinking about 24X20X7, that's two sheets of Baltic Burch that I bought on Friday. That's just to try and later I will experiment with MDF and walnut and stuff,I just need to do something immediately :)) Make no mistake, it will be very well executed. I am expecting the arm early next week and I will give you update of how it works out. I am still looking for the step up transformers for the RIAA but I believe they will be either peerless 4722 or S&B TX103(if I find a used pair). Thanks so much for the replies, I really appreciate it. I have two other friends that just got their lencos and it's going to be a great time, I will keep you posted.Have a great weekend !

Hi guys,
Thanks for the maple/mdf reply jean. A friend of mine owns a small machine shop. I was wondering what would happen if
he bought for me a slab of solid aluminum and followed the
plinth diagrams to hollow out said plinth. Basically 21 by 19 or so and about 4 or 5 inches high. Has anyone considered or attempted this? I don't know about the cost but the aluminum can't cost more than two or three hundred.
Then, the machining coststo hollow it out and buff it etc.
I was thinking that since the high end tables are mostly
solid aluminum,maybe it's the next step up in killing vibrations.
Thanks,

Does anybody know if there is anyone who builds metal idlers? I am looking for a couple. I have plastic ones with dryed rubber. Also, if anyone has an extra nose spring setting screw for sale, the adjusting screw which holds and adjusts for motor quietness at the end of the motor shaft.
Thanks, Tessera

Hi Tessera, to answer your second question first, the best source of replacement parts including metal wheels ate the Lenco B55s and variants, which go cheaper as they have the cheaper pressed-metal platters and smaller main bearings. They have the superb Lenco motors and also the metal wheels.

As to aluminum, what it does is provide rigidity, which isn't the same thing as damping/killing vibration/noise. In a context of Direct Coupling (which can't be done with metal or stone), wood is very much more effective at this. Better to stick with maple and MDF or birch-ply. Though a slab/layer of metal somewhere in there would increase strength/rigidity, sonic improvement is not a forgone conclusion, more experiments at the end of the summer!

The Review Lenco is at the lacquerer's, hoping it'll be done in time for my flight!! Wish me luck all!

Hi guys,
Thanks for the reply jean. You are right, wood should be the way to go.I've acquired a couple L 75's and the one I have cleaned up a bit (bearing,motor) and stripped of wood does sound better than my LP12 with Lingo supply I A/B'd with, using the same arm and cartridge (Rs a1 arm shelter 501). My L75 seems like an ancient one with a model # in the 2200 range and built in feb. 1968. It did not come with
the standard screw in each corner for affixing to the plinth. anyone encounter an early model like this? How did
you compensate for the shortcoming? Also, looking to sell
an Lp12 and a Lingo if anyone knows any Linnies out there.
Thanks