Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II

Hi,
I feel kind of bad for asking these questions here and not contributing much but I do hope to share my experience later... I came to the point that I have the Birch Plywood, it's 12 sheets of 0.75 inches and 20x19 size( 18 mm thick and 60X50 cm) . I need some advice-I can go for a Birch Plywood plinth only and for the MDF/Bply -I know Jean's advice is for the CLDamping and mixing both but man, do I hate MDF... Anyway, if someone has experience with an all birch plinth please advise. The other thing is a little more serious (at least for me). I know that if I mount the rega arm on the plinth the VTA will be off. I was thinking that I can cut the top layer of BB a few mm wider than the size of the armboard and make the board thinner so it sits below the surface of the plinth and thus adjust the VTA. But how thin should I make the board to achieve that? My cartridge is Denon 103 and I am not sure which dimensions I have to measure to calculate the right position too... I have seen people including Jean use this method to correct the VTA but I don't even know what size to make the armboard-is there a standart booad size for Rega arms or should I just experiment? My plan is to make several boards from different woods but first I need at least some guidance about the size of the board. Assuming that the top sheet of plywood is 18mm how thick should I make the board guys? Or to put it that way-how many mm lower should the rega arm be seated as compared to the top plywood sheet? I hope you understand my question... Thanks in advance, this is the last thing I need to make clear before I start with the router :))

Tessera, I am really interested in your experience with the RS-A1-this is the my dream arm and I would really appreciate a few more words on how you find it soundwise and setup wise, does it match weel with the Shelter? Please share...

Hi Kravi4ka,
The RS A1 arm, to my mind is a contender for the ultimate if not outright THE ultimate arm.Every other arm made has a fixed cartridge position,where the cartridge is solidly
screwed on to the arm. If you think of all the valleys and peaks and ridges that a cartridge traverses as the record spins,it's quite the resistive ride. No matter what comes along the needle faces it head strong. There is no other
choice. Whereas with the RS A1 the cartridge just sails
through with no resistance because of the pivoting action of the cartridge. It bends and bobs and weaves through the groove. I believe that because there is less resistance, the
needle sits lower in the groove. I auditioned this arm against SME V, various Origins,variations of the RB 300, on
the same tables. Every time there was no contest. It just flows, with no resistance,whereas other arms give a sense
of something dragging things down, or scrapping against a side of the groove. I owned an RB300 before upgrading,which I had a rewire done to and the counterweight change as well.
With each upgrade the Rega responded very positively,rivaling the highly regarded megabucks arms. It had kick ass base in the upgraded mode as well. But it is not in the same league with the RS A1. In comparison, this arm is smooooooth,liiiiquid,and extremely musical. When you have everything dialed right,especially if you get the spindle to distance and the angle to it; it's strictly goosebumps teritory. It really is that good. At the dealers,
he would demo by playing it on a Rega P3, and an SME V on an $8000 deck. The Rs a1 sounded better. Not base slam better,but better nonetheless. You prefer the presentation
of the rs a1. Now, it is not for everyone. It is a two piece affair,and held together by tiny output leads of the cartridge. Care must ALWAYS be exercised when cuing the arm, or else things can get set in motion quickly with the counterweight bobing around at the back. Also the Phono cable can, if not properly attended to,pull the arm of the turntable. You just have to be extra cautious with this one, thats all. I have heard this arm with all the Shelters, and it's a great synergy. And, with others as well,as long as the holes are not threaded. I personally, cannot accept any other arm, but that's me. JNantais has one as well and I believe he is happy with it. Another thing, where else can you just plonk down an arm on any table and play and compare it to what's installed on said table?
There is one comlaint though. If they couldjust supply the arm with an interconnect harness long enough to godirectly to the Phono input instead of it terminating at the base of the arm, then it would be heaven. Because their wire is so fine and pure,it's incredible. Apparently, it cannot be sourced anywhere.
Thanks Tessera

Tessera,
Thanks for your input regarding the RS A1. Ever since Jean raved about it, I have been hoping to pick one up (used). But from what you've written, it is so fragile it might be best to buy new lest it's damaged. Have you tried it with the Denon 103?
Where would you recommend purchasing one of these Praying Mantises?
Gracias!

Hi Oregon,

I don't know where you live but if you go to SAKURA SYSTEMS on the net, they will take care of you. They are the N. American distributors as well as for 47 Labs. Also, if you live in N. America, they will deal with you directly. I have not tried it with a Denon 103 but JNantais loves that combo. AS for my arm,the other day I started bragging about how wonderful it is on this forum and ....I snapped the tonearm cable lowering VTA as I kept trying out different makeshift armboards on my makeshift/halfbuilt plinth. Ah guess ah jinxed me.
On another note, does anyone know where to find Rubber Renew and Cameo in Canada?
Thanks Tessera

Tessera,
I'm sorry to hear about the cable. Will it be necessary to send it to Sakura for repair? Let us know what happens-
can you fixit?
Can someone locally (in your area) fix it?
Must you send it to Sakura, is there a fee and how much?

It is important to know how the company treats its customers.
Thanks and good luck!