Anyone used mini tnt feet on Scoutmaster

thank you Pmotz -- you are certainly correct.

Given the size of the replacement feet it is almost certainly the case that more than screwing off the coned feet is required. I do indeed have a rubber isolator on the plinth containing a down-facing threaded stud to receive the original cones. It would seem these must come out too to make room but that is far more than is explained in the literature (see: http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HW-B4008, where it shows the foot and the adaptor). I did tug a little at these but did not want to tear them out (using either method you describe) without some confirmation that this was what VPI intended (they provide NO instructions) or that unscrewing this stud would leave a suitable threaded receptacle on the other side for the replacement feet.

As one looks at the underside of the plinth, there is no way of knowing what wrenching the existing stud out will reveal on the other side. If it 'is' just a threaded receptacle for the new foot, one then wonders what possible role the advertised adaptor plays since it is large enough to cover the replacement foot's stud completely (i.e., one could not screw the new foot onto anything else when the adaptor is in place). Perhaps the removal of the existing stud, as per one of your methods, reveals a larger receptacle into which the adaptor then fits? Who knows? the dealer certainly doesn't and VPI don't care to provide that info to either the dealer or the customer in the form of instructions. Sometimes it's just frustrating being a customer willing to spend $$ on specialist hifi. the time alone on this has killed the joy of the supposed upgrade.

I'll let you all know when I learn anything more from the various parties involved.

Oscar44- If it's any consolation I also upgraded my motor to the 300 RPM version and the instructions for that were pretty sad. VPI makes a great product but their instructions leave something to be desired. For a high end product that needs attenton to detail this is inexcusable. Hopefully the will acknowledge your e-mail and let you know the proper instalation.

VPI have now replied -- here's the advice:

"The down facing 1/4-20 bolt on your table is part of the original rubber
system. The whole rubber part can be unscrewed from the chassis by
pulling and turning the bolt counterclockwise. Pulling the bolt will make
the rubber smaller so you get less friction against the chassis parts and
turning it will unscrew the old rubber mount.? This should solve the
problem. "

OK... Pmotz seems to have hit the target right on here. I tried it, using the 2 nut idea mentioned above to gain traction on the bolt (rather than gripping the bolt tread with a pliers) and with the full force of my arm on a wrench I could not get this thing to budge, it only gave as the rubber bushing twisted with the force but not further so I am not prepared to force it. I believe the down stud is joined via rubber to the bolt/stud that screws directly into the plinth, so you really need to turn the rubber join more than the bottom bolt - look at the replacement foot's insert to see what I mean, it's two bolts joined by a rubber midsection rather than one long bolt which you can turn by gripping directly. As you turn one end, the mid section rubber join flexes a little before the other bolt turns. Fine on a loose connection, but straining on the rubber when the joint is tight. VPI told me it was ok to wreck the tread as they could send replacements, and maybe the rubber would rip leaving me a chance to catch the upper bolt directly with a pliers but to be honest, I prefer to keep my TTable in working order - I am going to return these feet, more hassle than I am sure they are worth. If nothing else, VPI needs to get the instructions on this added to the packet - it is definitely not a trivial job for this version of the table.