Upgrade for users of 1/2" mylar belt


This thread will be of interest to Galibier, Redpoint and Teres belt drive TT owners, or anyone using or thinking of using a drive belt made from 1/2" mylar. The belt material of choice on these tables for several years has been the silver holographic mylar streamers from sources linked on the Teres and Galibier websites. This outperforms everything else we've tried but like anything it's not perfect - and we've now found something better.

One of the silver holographic mylar's assets can also become a liability. That metallic layer, when new, gives the belt exceptional "grip" on the platter and motor capstan. Minimal slippage on transients is one reason the material works so well. Unfortunately, that layer can wear over time, leaving a silvery gray residue and allowing performance to deteriorate. The only solution has been a good cleaning and a new belt. No big deal, but if there was a better or more stable belt Paul and I wanted to find it.

I'll spare you a recounting of our many experiments and jump to the good news: thanks to (yet another) brainstorm by my resident genius/partner, we've developed a belt that both performs better and lasts longer. I've held off posting until we were sure, but after 4 months of steady use Paul’s idea is still working perfectly. The only negative is that making this new belt takes an hour or more of work spread over two days, but to us it's worth the effort.

HOW TO MAKE ONE

1. Cut a length of the silver holographic mylar tape sufficient for your TT, plus 3-4" extra.

2. Remove the silver metallic coating off the backside of the mylar. Paul used an acid etching cream popular with stained glass hobbyists to dissolve the metal - safe, quick and easy (use skin and eye protection).

3. Rinse thoroughly under running water, inspect to make sure you got all the silver off, wipe and hang to dry overnight.

4. Splice as normal to make a TT belt, making sure you tape on the OUTSIDE (which will be smoother than the now bare inside).

5. As always, the best splicing technique is to overlap the ends and cut on a 30-40 degree angle. Apply 1” video splicing tape (*not* tabs) across the belt at the *same* angle and trim away the excess.


WHY IT PERFORMS BETTER

Unlike any plain mylar ribbon you could easily buy, the silver holographic streamer has an ultra fine texture embossed on the back side of the *mylar* during manufacturing (*before* the metallic backing is applied). Once the silver layer is applied you can't see this texture, but that's what diffracts light like a million tiny prisms to produce the shimmery rainbow effect. Stripping the metal backing away exposes this texture, which becomes the contact surface of your new belt.

Paul realized this texture must exist and then hypothesized that using it for the working side of a TT belt might provide more “grip” on the platter rim and motor capstan than either plain mylar (which is extremely smooth) or the metallic backing. He was right. This belt produces more lifelike dynamics, both macro- and micro-, than even a brand new silver holographic belt - which heretofore was the best.

WHY IT LASTS LONGER

Removing the metallic backing exposes bare mylar, which is much sturdier than that fine layer of metal. Under normal use and assuming no accidents, one of these belts should last many, many months, perhaps years, while delivering consistent performance. Ours is going into its fifth month with few visible and no audible signs of wear.

Different motor capstan materials might interact with this belt differently, but I urge anyone with a compatible table to give this a try. Like all our favorite little tweaks, we'd find it hard to go back.

A FEW TIPS

1. Clean any silver/grey residue from your old belt off the motor capstan and platter before mounting the new belt.

2. As many of us have learned, the more inelastic the belt, the more critical motor leveling becomes. That is truer than ever with this new belt. Getting the motor set just right is touchy. Take care that your new belt is riding level in the center of the capstan before you start to play. You don't want it sliding up or down and mangling itself.

3. Motor distancing is also more critical than ever. Since this belt will not slip *or* stretch, tension must be perfect. The right amount is just shy of the tension that would tilt the motor off its feet.

4. Depending on your climate, the belt can build up static potential during use. Not enough to spark, but more than enough to attract airborne dust. I dust the belt's inside with my CF brush after each side before stopping the platter.

5. With this or any belt, always start your platter spinning with a helping push. Just pressing the motor's ON button creates lots of belt-wearing friction as the rapidly spinning motor tries to drag that heavy platter up to speed.

It all sounds like a pain, and it is! But the sonic and longevity results are worth the effort.

Cheers,
Doug
dougdeacon
Dgarretson,

Albeit the fact you are running a rather complex idler system on your drive chain, I still agree with Doug that you'll have audible cogging via the Mylar belt, especially with the 300 RPM motor. I've tried implementing the same Hurst motor (with the Kelly AC-1) in a "direct" pulley to platter setup on my Galibier, and have a hard time with the cogging artifacts, especially at 33RPM (the cogging is much less audible at 45 RPM). And yes, the Mylar belt will provide a much more direct link to the drive mechanism than string - too lossless for the Hurst AC motor. The Hurst motor in question simply has too much torque to allow for smooth rotation - so much so that I've been seeking alternative motors with less torque to try this experiment again - the Premotec/Philips-Airpax (as used in the Linn) with 4 mNm torque, and the Berger-Lahr as used in the Raven AC with 7 mNm of torque seem like better, low cogging alternatives to the Hurst with its beefy 19.06 mNm of torque. I now understand why VPI uses all those rubber belts, pulleys and flywheels - they are absolutely necessary to reduce the audible cogging of the Hurst motor. That said, I think there is some degree of virtue to be had with an AC synchronous motor - qualities that I am not (at this time) ready to remark upon fully, as more experimentation is needed. However, the Hurst is a fine 300RPM motor - very stable and with enough torque to overcome all but the mightiest amounts of stylus drag; I can see why VPI uses this motor. I'd also like to comment very positively on Mr. Kelly's controller - I wish I had one when I still owned my Linn; in many ways, it is far superior to the Lingo, if only for the fact that it can be tailored to the needs of every motor (of which no two are exactly alike). Good listening,

-Richard
Yes Doug i am up and running and i must say that glitter backed mylar will pull my platter up to speed in two revolutions. I am hopping it stays that way a while.

Off of the subject i gave Atmos a run but after using UNIivers for over a year and a half i am going back with it. Atmos is one fine cartridge and if i had not heard UNIverse i would and could live with it but IMO UNIverse wins in all categories. Thanks to you an Paul again for the improved mylar tweak.
Doug,

I just received my first 'tweaked' belt. Significant improvement that was immediately noticeable. Thanks for sharing your experience. BTW, are you going to RMAF?
Dgarretson,
Palasr's response, based on more experience than mine, confirms my speculation. Yes, the mylar (especially tweaked as per this thread) will provide far more grip than any thread.

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Stltrains,
I won't say I'm surprised at your Atmos/UNIverse decision. I enjoyed the Atmos for rock, but for the music we listen to daily the UNIverse's superior resolution, speed and lack of overhang make most other cartridges nearly intolerable - even one as good as the Atmos.

Our system has improved in dynamics and bass response since we reviewed the Atmos. This makes the rock experience with the UNIverse very powerful. If we were reviewing today I'm not sure I'd need the Atmos's extra oomph, even for rock.

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Jazdoc,
Glad to know another person has tried this tweak and is hearing the improvements.

Paul and I are both coming to RMAF (our first). I'm thinking of wearing a Hawaiian style grass skirt made of silver/holographic mylar, just so people can avoid me. What do you think?
Doug,

If you wear that you won't need an ID badge! I look forward to meeting you and Paul.

Regards,
Mark