SP10 Mk II vs Mk III

Ralph, your less than favorable comments on the "OEM plinths for the Technics" must have been intended for the Teak plinth. I first read it wrong, thinking you meant to reply to Lonestarsouth on the SAEC SBX-7 since that was an OEM plinth. That confused me further since the SAEC is so similar to your earlier description of a desirable plinth. To me the Teak looked like something anyone with basic woodworking skills could produce.

Like Lew, I'm also wondering about your possible reference to the EPA-100. I've read nothing but good reports on its construction and performance. If fact, with the adjustable damping feature, it could work with higher compliance cartridges than would otherwise be expected for an arm of that mass, as well as medium and low compliance, meaning it is very versatile.

Albert, when you re-capped your sp10 mkII did you do the drive and circuit boards or just the power supply?

Hello Lewm,

I've been a silent reader for a while... Thanks for the question. And yes, that's the material. It is available in different hardnesses-densities (the densest the harder).
My idea is to use it along with plywood using a very thick slab (about 2') in the middle of the "sandwich", in this way it will be protected, add mass with a diffrent resonace curve, and a quite dead material halfway. That slab will be also used as the base for the armboards (to be done from thick blocks of the same material, that i know is good for the purpose since i am already using it).

To further add mass I tought to make a bottom steel plate "a la" Porter, only I tought to make it bigger so that all the screws of the motor unit will go there. The "screws" will be made out of 1' brass (or steel?) tubes worked at both ends.

Now a few questions, one for Mr. Albert Porter (by chance we are colleagues... funny). Is it there any special warning/advice he can give about the center "screw"? You remove a cup and go in with the screw... but what's there (i am still waiting my unit..)?
The second question is more general. I plan to make those 6 big screws that will pass trough all the plinth and reach the bottom steel plate. Should those screws and the bottom plate have a rigid coupling to the whole structure, or should them (and the plate as well) be decoupled somehow (using a layer of neoprene around the tubes and over the plate)?

...ummm maybe this reading is too difficult (english is not my language, also), is it there a way to post some sketches here?

Well, as usual many thanks to everybody here... all informations and ideas are precious!

Silverprint, Don't know what Albert is going to say, but in general it is not a good idea to decouple the tt and the plinth. The whole idea is to couple them as efficiently and completely as possible. Rubber grommets or any similar devices will defeat the purpose. As far as your plinth idea, I think it has real possibilities. Where and how have you got hold of thick pieces of graphite and the ability to machine them?

Now a few questions, one for Mr. Albert Porter (by chance we are colleagues... funny). Is it there any special warning/advice he can give about the center "screw"? You remove a cup and go in with the screw... but what's there (i am still waiting my unit..)?

I don't know of a center screw, only the brass rod that contact's the Technics bearing cup to drain. Nothing in my design penetrates the Technics in any way. The screws we choose go from the plinth bottom and into the factory tapped holes. Screws are original thread and non magnetic stainless steel.