SP10 Mk II vs Mk III
Oops, sorry the Denon I was talking about was a DP-755, which does not have quartz lock, a much older unit. I gave that to a friend and it's deservedly sitting in storage collecting dust. Sorry for the typo! I intend to experiment with the faulty SP10 unit anyway, so it's no big deal. Thanks for the response. |
09-02-09: Hiho Hiho, with my MK2 it was caps, with my MK3 it was a cap that killed an IC. The most common cap in a Technics MK2 causing speed error is the large vertically mounted electrolytic located directly behind the face plate of the outboard power supply. (Wish we could put images into these posts!) Here is a list of the stock values I replaced in my outboard power supply. There are more under the platter. #.....uF.......VDC (1) 100 .......16 (1) 100 .......16 (1) 1000......16 (1) 100 .......50 (1) 100 .......50 (1) 1000 .....80 (1) 22 .......160 (1) 100 .....160 The following are what replaced the list above. I purchased mine from Mike Percy #.....Brand............uF..........VDC (4) Nichicon ..... 100uf......50V ES (NP) (1) Nichicon .....1000uf......25V ES (NP) (1) Nichicon .....1000uf....100V FV (polar) (1) Black Gate ... 33uf....160V standard polar (1) Black Gate .....100uf....160V standard polar Hope this helps, I would check to be sure Technics did not change values from model to model before ordering. This should be a good start though. |
A Technics table gone rogue... |
Yep, that's how fast my faulty SP10 spins! I could have turned that into a lawn mower. Albert, thanks for the cap info. I used a functional power supply that I know for sure works to connect to the broken SP10 and still had the same problem so I don't think it's a power supply issue. It's something in the SP10 boards. However, I have two extra bad power supplies that I think I need to recap so your info will come in handy. I copied and pasted it for future reference. Thanks again! |
Hiho, It is quite possible that your speed "error" (if you want to call 200 rpm a mere error) is due to a leaky or deceased electrolytic. The best way to find that out is to replace the lytics with new ones. It really does not matter much what brand you use; all modern lytics will be an upgrade. Panasonic low voltage caps (FC type) are superb and cost a bit less than the ones Albert listed. I would start with the power supply. Disconnect it from the main chassis, turn it on, and measure the DC voltages at its outputs. (You'll need a manual, perhaps.) You should see 140VDC, 32VDC, and 5VDC with very little ripple (less than 1VAC, for example). If the voltages are only slightly off, and if there is acceptable ripple, then the supply is probably not to blame. There are pots inside the PS chassis with which you can re-adjust the DC outputs to conform to the expected values. OTOH, if voltages are way off or if there is significant AC voltage at the outputs, THEN you might change the caps first of all. If you have a cap meter, you can test each cap individually for leakage, or you can empirically change them all, because if they are not detectably bad now, they might soon be. There are only about 8 caps in there. If you can snag a service manual from Vinyl Engine or some other source, you can look up the parts list for the PS and simply order the ones you'll need. I bought my Panasonic caps from Digikey, I think, but there are other vendors, too. There is one high-voltage cap, maybe the 1000uF/80V in Albert's list. I actually used a 2000uF/200V Panasonic TS-ED type, because it exactly fits the clamp. It way outperforms the original. There's no harm in using a higher value in this position, but in other cases it's wise to use the same value in capacitance. The DC voltage rating can be the same as original or higher, but not lower. After you have checked out the PS, then turn your attention to the on-board electronics. This is a crapshoot, because it IS possible that one of the ICs has already blown, in which case you will be searching for it. I think Albert can help you there. |
