SP10 Mk II vs Mk III

Hiho, It is quite possible that your speed "error" (if you want to call 200 rpm a mere error) is due to a leaky or deceased electrolytic. The best way to find that out is to replace the lytics with new ones. It really does not matter much what brand you use; all modern lytics will be an upgrade. Panasonic low voltage caps (FC type) are superb and cost a bit less than the ones Albert listed. I would start with the power supply. Disconnect it from the main chassis, turn it on, and measure the DC voltages at its outputs. (You'll need a manual, perhaps.) You should see 140VDC, 32VDC, and 5VDC with very little ripple (less than 1VAC, for example). If the voltages are only slightly off, and if there is acceptable ripple, then the supply is probably not to blame. There are pots inside the PS chassis with which you can re-adjust the DC outputs to conform to the expected values. OTOH, if voltages are way off or if there is significant AC voltage at the outputs, THEN you might change the caps first of all. If you have a cap meter, you can test each cap individually for leakage, or you can empirically change them all, because if they are not detectably bad now, they might soon be. There are only about 8 caps in there. If you can snag a service manual from Vinyl Engine or some other source, you can look up the parts list for the PS and simply order the ones you'll need. I bought my Panasonic caps from Digikey, I think, but there are other vendors, too. There is one high-voltage cap, maybe the 1000uF/80V in Albert's list. I actually used a 2000uF/200V Panasonic TS-ED type, because it exactly fits the clamp. It way outperforms the original. There's no harm in using a higher value in this position, but in other cases it's wise to use the same value in capacitance. The DC voltage rating can be the same as original or higher, but not lower. After you have checked out the PS, then turn your attention to the on-board electronics. This is a crapshoot, because it IS possible that one of the ICs has already blown, in which case you will be searching for it. I think Albert can help you there.

Hiho, you say you have "a functional power supply" and "two extra bad supplies". Are these all SH-10E(A) original equipment units? Since they seem to be quite rare separate from the tables is why I ask.

If you have anything other than original power supplies, do they supply all three voltages that Lewm identified?

I have three SP10mk2 units with five original power supplies, two are bad that needs to be repaired. I can take care of the power supplies and I do have a service manual. Since I have experience in building tube amps and judging by the schematic, it's not that complicated. However, I am certainly no expert when it comes to integrated circuits and chips! The one SP10 with speed issue is definitely in the boards inside the SP10 chassis. Yes, it's a crapshoot. An IC might be blown or it could be a bad cap. I will attempt to fix the extra power supplies first and then move on to the bad speed unit. Fingers crossed. It will take some time as I am in no hurry as I still have two other functional units. But I don't even use them that much because I am quite happy with my other turntables right now. Thank you so much for all the information posted here and I really appreciate the help, which makes this hobby worthwhile.

Happy listening and fixing stuff!

Hi All,

I've got 2 mkii's and one chassis ala Albert Porter. I've replaced all the caps in my PS, but none on the table's boards. Relative to the PS, how critical are the caps on these boards? Also, how difficult/easy is it to access these boards, get them out of the chassis, and replace the caps? Finally, how many caps are there on the internal board(s)?

Another unrelated question... my second chassis is pretty darn ugly. If I wanted to give it a facelift, perhaps make it black, what method would you suggest, within the "reasonable cost" category.

Thanks, Peter S.

I take the position that any modern electrolytic of recent manufacture (and of proper value and voltage) will be fine to use anywhere in the MkII. Ergo, I use Panasonic FC or TS-ED types, depending upon voltage needed. They are cheap and have vanishingly low ESR, compared to anything that was made back in the 70s and 80s. Others might tell you that they can "hear" the differences among electrolytics in this circuit and would therefore use boutique brands of caps. I don't choose to argue that point either way. IMO, the caps on board the main chassis are every bit as critical as the PS caps, and maybe moreso, since they reside in proximity to the ICs and transistors that function in the servo circuit. Getting at them to replace them looks to be not too bad. I am going to give it a try myself.

If I wanted to restore an SP10 cosmetically, I would have it done professionally by an experienced company. Such a one can be found in the UK; I don't know their web address. Google will find it, I think. Unfortunately, their service is not cheap. Fortunately, the workmanship looks excellent.