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SP10 Mk II vs Mk III

A couple of guys here were planning to do listening comparisons of the Technics SP10 Mk II vs the Mk III, in their own homes and systems. Has anyone actually completed such a comparison? I am wondering whether the "upgrade" to the Mk III is actually worth it in terms of audible differences between the two tables. Possibly mounting either table in a well done wooden or slate plinth mitigates any sonic differences that would otherwise be heard. I am thinking of Albert Porter and Mike Lavigne in particular, who were going to do the comparison. Thanks for any response.
lewm
lewm OP
13,298 posts
 
Sorry, Lonestar, I thought you needed a copy yourself. I have one already that I bought from Soundfountain. (So it is not in e-format, only a hard copy. Soundfountain sends hard copies from Germany.) Thank you for your kind offer, however.
jlevro
2 posts
 
There are indeed lots of 1uf 50V (same as "WV") electrolytics on the boards. Remember, this is 70's technology.

SP-10MkII and III service manuals are available for download on vinylengine.com.

John L
lewm OP
13,298 posts
 
How about 1 pF?
pryso
1,947 posts
 
Re: number of electrolytic caps

The Service Manual for my SP-10 Mk2A identifies 24 'lytics in the main unit section and 8 in the power unit section. So, not much difference from Peter's count except he didn't include the power section which I've been told is most critical for 'lytic replacement. Of course the 2A replaced the multiple boards of the 2 with a single main board so removal should be easier.

Also, all caps are identified by a V, no WV or W.

Now, since I know so little about electronics, is there a consideration for replacing any of the diodes with new (faster) parts?
lewm OP
13,298 posts
 
The diodes are by and large Germanium types. No one uses those any more except in special applications. They have a low forward voltage drop, compared to some other even more modern types, so probably they should not be "updated" indiscriminately. Schottky diodes, the latest craze, have a low forward voltage drop too, and in one case I know the Germanium types in the PS can be replaced with Schottky's. Bill Thalmann, the guy who serviced my 2A and Albert's tables too, used some Fairchild Stealth diodes here and there. Problem is I don't know where. The only advantage of messing with diodes is possibly lower noise, which is all it takes to make us audio-dudes drool with desire. Bill advised me as a general rule not to worry about it, using the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" approach. You could go crazy and start replacing film caps, if there are any. No real reason to do it.

Has anyone tried any of the various after-market outboard PSs available for the MkII? I know there is one sold via eBay and one sold by Vantage Audio (for much bigger bucks). The VA unit looks really nice, with separate transformers for each PS voltage output, darnit. I could build one but it ain't gonna happen in this lifetime.
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