Linn Sondek Hype

Thanks for the suggestions, I should have said a little more. The one I bought came with the sound organisation wall mount, so I am covered there, but my listening room is in the basement, and I do not think I can install it because there are no studs. Because it is a basement I don't have footfall issues, thank goodness for concrete ;). I am not sure as to the durability of this one, as I don't know the age, but it came with the lingo power supply, and ekos arm, with a shure v15 mxr. If wall mounting is still the best option, I think I mount a couple of 2x4's across where the studs in the wall already are, then mount the table to that. The studs in the basement are spaced at the width of the drywall sense it is a faux wall. Which leads me to another concern, reading the paperwork it says it must be mounted onto a load bearing wall, which the faux wall is not, it is simply a way to hold the drywall over the concrete basement wall.

Gsxr, if you are in a basement/concrete floor just get a nice stand and set it directly on the floor. I would not wall mount it unless floor space is an issue. With the solid concrete floor you will not have any issues if a good stand is between the TT and the floor. You would not need Aurios or to brace the stand against the wall. Are you having any issues with the wat the TT is playing at this point?

It doesn't "have" to be a load bearing wall. It's just that a load bearing wall is likely to be better coupled to the mass of the house. So vibration damping will be better. The more firmly attached the non-load bearing wall is, the more likely it will mimic the effect of being a load bearing wall. If you're in a basement with a concrete floor, a spiked floor standing table or rack should be fine. It will serve the same purpose as a load bearing wall since you're coupling it to the mass of the house.

The issue I am having is with the rack, it is a circuit city stand purchased purely on looks. It has gotten looser, which I am assuming is due to my constant fiddling with components, and blasting the hell out of it. So now if I go to change the volume on the old c28, it causes skipping. This is the reason I decided a separate stand would be in order. Since I have the wall stand, I think maybe I should mount it on that right now, although it will ungainly to look at with the 2x4's crossing the wall, and wait till I can afford a decent floor stand. I just do not know what a decent floor stand is, and what qualifies for light and rigid by Linn standards, seems an old metal shop bench would be perfect. I have one that weighs no more than 15 pounds, and is nearly impossible to bend.

Is it possible to mount the wall shelf to a back brace and add a stabilizing footer that protrudes to the front the same depthe as the shelf and that way it is moveable? Or if you have the shopbench and can make that work until you can afford the stand you want. That would save patching holes in drywall later.