Sony TTS 8000 w Sony PUA 1600L

Sorenoiversen,
Please do report your findings.
I have seen the 1.2kg-cm number "inertia" number posted on The Vintage Knob spec page. I expect that is supposed to be the torque number because it is not an inertia number (it is a couple of hundred times too low I think to be the right inertia moment spec - which can't be very high on this table I don't think).

Just found this thread. I have just paid for and am awwaiting a Sony TTS8000. I have to say that I absolutely love the styling. I remember reading a review in Hi-Fi World and the author thought it was great - likewise Hi-Fi News recently tested one and gave it a great review. In addition to this JCarr commented elsewhere that he preferred this and other slotless designs in the thread 'stand out phono stages'. I could not resist. The thing that I am really looking forward to is plinth(ing) it and having a bake of with my other decks (EMT 950 still needs to be sorted out). I am curious about a few things:
1. Which modern arm will best go with the tts 8000
2. Which carrtridge would you use with the TTS
3. Wood, slate, panzerholz??? what's the ultimate plinth material?
I am convinced that one will need an arm cartridge that is perhaps a bit on the warm side of neutral with great imaging properties - what say you

Lohanimal,
Here are my thoughts:
(1) Choose tonearm to match cartridge. Just about any tonearm will work on the TTS8000, except before purchasing a 12-incher you might check to be sure it fits the armboard.
(2) See my response to (1)
(3) Wood vs slate vs Panzerholz (which is a kind of wood, after all). These materials can all give excellent results if the plinth is otherwise properly designed and engineered. I personally have found that a combo of slate and a hardwood (cherry, not Panzerholz) is the most neutral I've ever heard, but in fairness, I have never "heard" a Panzerholz plinth.

Hi Lewm
The deck unfortunately is a motor unit, so I I have to build a plinth. That said it allows me to cook up a design of my own. I was going to design it to take two arms - one of which will accommodate a Townshend Rock Trough - I have at my disposal the following arms:
Moerch DP6
Jelco st 250/mission equivalent
EMT 929
I am just concerned that a p inch arm may not be long enough and I need to get a 10.5 or 12 inch arm - that's mean i can't use my trough - although I may get someone to make one for me.
Thanks for the plinth advice - my only concern with soli hardwood is sourcing planks that are sufficiently 'cured' and warp free - as you may know from the thread/storm I seemed to have created with the 'wooden arms warp' thread I have done cabinet making etc, and whilst I am very fond of wood I may be unable to get my hands on sufficiently aged and dried planks - but try I shall...

You're very courageous if you are going to make the plinth from raw wood planks. I created an engineering drawing of what I wanted and gave it to a "real" carpenter, who made the base for me out of solid cherry. (Sounds like you yourself have some real carpentry skills; I do not.)

I then mated that base to a slate plinth that I had previously commissioned. I bought the slate slab in PA, had it cut and honed by the company that sold the slate to me. They then shipped the slab to a water-jet company, also in PA, where the slate was cut to accept the chassis of my SP10 Mk3. The slate slab and the wood base are held together by 6 or 7 large bolts that engage threaded inserts I installed into the bottom side of the slate. Then the Mk3 chassis is bolted through both layers, top to bottom. The slate alone was "very good", but I think the slate + cherry is even more neutral. (What else would one say after so much time, effort, and aggravation?)