Poor BASS with Dynavector XX2 +Sunilda + AudioNote

Thanks again ...

Sorry, I do not know how far is the tonearm tube from parallel to record ... I have not chechek.

What I will do is the following:

1/ To check my prephono Sunilda with my friend's turntable (which is well adjusted as he own very good arm). If I have strong basses, it will mean my Sunilda is OK. Otherwise, I will contact AudioValve and s what i can do.

2/ If Sunilda is OK (this is what I would prefer), I will purchase a VAT adjustment system (available for Reaga arms ..) and I will change it.

My feeling is that this is a VAT issue, as the rest of the sound is really nice ....

Curious? I am fom France .. in Grenoble.

Regards to all

Stelma - the DPS already is designed so that VTA can be adjusted (just simply via set-screw).

Most VTA adjustment system (e.g. Riggle, Incognito) would not work if the arm is correctly mounted on the DPS (i.e. set screw from the side rather than the counter nut usually used on the Rega arm).

I own a DPS table as well.

VTA is extremely easy to change with DPS/Rega arm.

It should of come with the proper sized hex screw to change it.

I used a deck of cards, and this made setting VTA very easy and repeatable.

For me it was usually between 5 or 7 cards depending on record thickness to get the best sound. I had a ZYX Atmos however.

Look on the arm side of the table, you should have a hole in the black acrylic plinth.

IF you are unable to adjust VTA with the hex screw in that hole, it is because you have the lug nut of the Rega arm tightened against the underside of the black acrylic and thus you have no freedom of movement on the tonearm. The lugnut should be towards the bottom of the Rega stub, only serving the purpose of preventing you from pulling the arm out of the hole completely. The VTA adjusting hex screw is what really holds the arm in place.

I have an XX1-H and have also found that the VTA seems to be very sensitive. I think as you get into better cartridges the VTA becomes more and more critical and harder and harder to easily identify without an on-the-fly adjustor. Far more so than my old 20X-H.

Bob

I completely agree with Soliver - you should have hex set-screw in place. Willi
(the DPS designer) makes a special one that has a flattened ball-point so that
the threads of the Rega arm are not damaged. For other arms (e.g. the
Schroeder No.2 arm) that one should be exchanged for a ball point hex screw.

I prefer the set-screw method combined with deck of cards (that you slide
between arm post and plinth to measure height and remove after set-up) to the
other Rega methods for VTA adjustment.