Tom, you have the sequence reversed. There should be no tail-chasing ;-) ! You first MUST wait 50 hours (100 if you can stand it) until the suspension is settled in; a term I prefer to broken(!?) in ;-)
And forget some manufacturers' claims (like Immutable Music who made my Transfiguration for instance) about their new "space-age" suspension elastics. Maybe they ARE less susceptible to deterioration, however, there are NO supensions/cartridges that I've so far used, or more broadly, heard about or read about from their users, that didn't change quite audibly after the first 50 - 100 hours. Which is another reason why running-in a new cartridge at .25 grams OVER the max. recommended VTF (as I described earlier) for the first 50 - 100 hours is IMO essential for the long term stability of all other settings, including SRA.
The sequence I recommend (to avoid tail-chasing) is:
1.) Install your new cartridge in the TA and make the various geometrical settings as reasonably accurate as possible without being obsessive about it (there will be plenty of time for obsession later on ;-)
2.) Set the VTF to .25 grams over the max. recommended, for the first 100 hours.
3.) Play records for 100 hours. You don't HAVE to listen to them, but definitely play them. I emphasize that because some folks think you can "season" a suspension by just leaving the stylus/arm/cartridge sitting on a record for 100 hours without the platter revolving. I don't know about that one, but it just doesn't feel right to me!
4.) After the initial 100 hours, re-set the VTF for the loudest output. Let the high frequencies be your guide for "loudest", because they are the first to disappear when the coil isn't in the perfect position. You may have to do a few trials before you can decide. Use a mono record as I described earlier. That setting should be good for a long, long, time.
5.) Set the SRA as I described elsewhere.
6.) Level the platter using a small spirit level. Check with the level oriented in opposite directins. Average if you have a crappy level. Then, make sure the headshell is level along the spindle-to-stylus line.
7.) Set the azimuth (if your headshell or tonearm tube allows) using the mono record technique.
8.) Check stylus overhang and cartridge off-set settings from Step 1. But FIRST, note your VTF, because if the overhang needs more than 1 mm adjustment fore or aft, you'll need to reset the VTF to what it was before you reset the overhang.
9.) Set the anti-skate to ,3 to .5 times the VTF as a start. Line contact styli produce so little frictioon in the groove that using any anti-skate is probably gratuitous as far as differences in sonics is concerned -- but it does tame the TA skidding toward the spindle at the mopst inopportune moments!
10.) Set the loading (for MC cartridges) starting at 15 times the cartridge's internal impedance, and raising it slowly until the bass 'tightens up', but before it diminishes any amount in volume; and before the treble gets glaring (the bass will usually go first though.) If your phono preamp has only fixed load settings, 100 ohms will usually work very well for most MC's.
.
And forget some manufacturers' claims (like Immutable Music who made my Transfiguration for instance) about their new "space-age" suspension elastics. Maybe they ARE less susceptible to deterioration, however, there are NO supensions/cartridges that I've so far used, or more broadly, heard about or read about from their users, that didn't change quite audibly after the first 50 - 100 hours. Which is another reason why running-in a new cartridge at .25 grams OVER the max. recommended VTF (as I described earlier) for the first 50 - 100 hours is IMO essential for the long term stability of all other settings, including SRA.
The sequence I recommend (to avoid tail-chasing) is:
1.) Install your new cartridge in the TA and make the various geometrical settings as reasonably accurate as possible without being obsessive about it (there will be plenty of time for obsession later on ;-)
2.) Set the VTF to .25 grams over the max. recommended, for the first 100 hours.
3.) Play records for 100 hours. You don't HAVE to listen to them, but definitely play them. I emphasize that because some folks think you can "season" a suspension by just leaving the stylus/arm/cartridge sitting on a record for 100 hours without the platter revolving. I don't know about that one, but it just doesn't feel right to me!
4.) After the initial 100 hours, re-set the VTF for the loudest output. Let the high frequencies be your guide for "loudest", because they are the first to disappear when the coil isn't in the perfect position. You may have to do a few trials before you can decide. Use a mono record as I described earlier. That setting should be good for a long, long, time.
5.) Set the SRA as I described elsewhere.
6.) Level the platter using a small spirit level. Check with the level oriented in opposite directins. Average if you have a crappy level. Then, make sure the headshell is level along the spindle-to-stylus line.
7.) Set the azimuth (if your headshell or tonearm tube allows) using the mono record technique.
8.) Check stylus overhang and cartridge off-set settings from Step 1. But FIRST, note your VTF, because if the overhang needs more than 1 mm adjustment fore or aft, you'll need to reset the VTF to what it was before you reset the overhang.
9.) Set the anti-skate to ,3 to .5 times the VTF as a start. Line contact styli produce so little frictioon in the groove that using any anti-skate is probably gratuitous as far as differences in sonics is concerned -- but it does tame the TA skidding toward the spindle at the mopst inopportune moments!
10.) Set the loading (for MC cartridges) starting at 15 times the cartridge's internal impedance, and raising it slowly until the bass 'tightens up', but before it diminishes any amount in volume; and before the treble gets glaring (the bass will usually go first though.) If your phono preamp has only fixed load settings, 100 ohms will usually work very well for most MC's.
.