Glad to be of help, George.
To create an arc protractor, what matters first are the values for your tonearm's Effective Length (235mm) and Pivot to Spindle distance (221mm) [from Vinyl Engine's Technics page]. While there, perform a search for Arc protractor, or perhaps contact Galibier Turntable company for guidance.
For a making a blank armboard-- the measurements are indeed critical, but easily within the capacity of any decent workshop for wood or acrylic. One has to know the outer dimensions of the plate and the locations of its eight mounting-screw holes. Those you can take from your current board, likely without dismounting it.
And there is the one large hole to drill for your future tonearm. This hole's location is determined by that tonearm's template laying onto your mounted but-still-blank armboard, as it is the pivot-to-spindle distance you are trying to get right.
The Technics model/part number for the blank cast armboard is SH-11P1, and the wood version is SH-11P1W. You would see they each have radial lines pointing to the spindle, for ease of use with the templates of other tonearms. Have a look here: SL-1100 details and here SL-1100. Your machine, sold without tonearm, was called the SL-110.
It seems you should plan on having your own armboard made to use another tonearm, since finding a new blank one will likely take quite some time. But your stock arm is not terrible at all if you change out its headshell. And if you look underneath your existing armboard, you may find the old arm easy to remove without damage, and to open up the existing hole for another arm (if necessary). Someone on EBay-Australia is selling your arm/armboard assembly for AU$100 right now, FYI.
Best regards,
Roy
To create an arc protractor, what matters first are the values for your tonearm's Effective Length (235mm) and Pivot to Spindle distance (221mm) [from Vinyl Engine's Technics page]. While there, perform a search for Arc protractor, or perhaps contact Galibier Turntable company for guidance.
For a making a blank armboard-- the measurements are indeed critical, but easily within the capacity of any decent workshop for wood or acrylic. One has to know the outer dimensions of the plate and the locations of its eight mounting-screw holes. Those you can take from your current board, likely without dismounting it.
And there is the one large hole to drill for your future tonearm. This hole's location is determined by that tonearm's template laying onto your mounted but-still-blank armboard, as it is the pivot-to-spindle distance you are trying to get right.
The Technics model/part number for the blank cast armboard is SH-11P1, and the wood version is SH-11P1W. You would see they each have radial lines pointing to the spindle, for ease of use with the templates of other tonearms. Have a look here: SL-1100 details and here SL-1100. Your machine, sold without tonearm, was called the SL-110.
It seems you should plan on having your own armboard made to use another tonearm, since finding a new blank one will likely take quite some time. But your stock arm is not terrible at all if you change out its headshell. And if you look underneath your existing armboard, you may find the old arm easy to remove without damage, and to open up the existing hole for another arm (if necessary). Someone on EBay-Australia is selling your arm/armboard assembly for AU$100 right now, FYI.
Best regards,
Roy