Nude Turntable Project

Lewm: "I looked at a few of the URLs you provided and don't yet see how the Mk3 motor can be parted from the company of its chassis, but perhaps the info is there somewhere."

Here are couple pictures showing the SP10Mk3 motor wires can be detached from the connector next to the motor, whereas in SP10Mk2 the wires exit out of the motor and routed to the PCB.

http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-2g.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-21.jpg

Lewm: "Doing it for the DP80 promises greater rewards, because there we do have the issue of a hollow space under and around the motor housing. But re-establishing the tape head reading system is a ticklish business, I would think."

I agree. The DP80 holds great promise and you might like it even more after "replinthing" it. Yes, re-establishing the tapehead position will be tricky but not impossible. I have few Sony PS-8975 tables that I am tempted to try a new plinth but the tapehead issue is discouraging me so I moved on to other DD turntables for experiment...

Lewm: "Do you read Japanese?"

I can read Chinese but not Japanese. There are some Chinese characters, Kanji, that I can decipher but it's hard to understand in proper context. I just use Google Translate.

Amp8.com via Google Translate

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I take it that the two URLs you cite above show the top and bottom of the denuded Mk3 chassis. (Well actually I KNOW that the top photo shows the top view of a Mk3 motor cum chassis.) When I look at the two photos, I do not see where the chassis can be separated from the stators of the motor. Probably there is some way to do it and also to remove the bearing housing. Then you must re-seat those two in some sort of structure so that there is a PERFECT concentric relationship retained. (Otherwise, you will have wow problems like none of us could ever imagine.) Also, you must create that structure, which holds everything in this exact proper orientation, so the platter can fit over it. Not a job for Joe Amateur (or Lew Amateur). Steve Dobbins is an experienced machinist, which is how he can get away with explanting those items successfully. Alternative is to get out a saw and just cut away the decorative escutcheon. The Mk2 is a piece of cake by comparison.

"I do not see where the chassis can be separated from the stators of the motor."

Hi Lewm
In those photos it looks to me that there are 4 allen bolts accessible from the top(on the black ring)..... they are also visible from the bottom.
If you look closely from the bottom there appears to be a fine gap where the vertical wall of the motor meets the horizontal part of the plinth.
The motor should pull out from the top.

Lewm: "When I look at the two photos, I do not see where the chassis can be separated from the stators of the motor."

I don't own a Mk3 so all I can go by are the photos and judging by the pictures I don't see the motor as that much different from the Mk2, which I took apart many times, in terms of assembly. Looks like you can unscrew the four hex screws with the arrows to remove the motor. I am not a machinist but I don't see taking the motor out being that complicated... maybe very time consuming, but then again I don't own a Mk3 so I really don't know. The Mk3 is maybe too belabored for this kind of project. I recommend the MK2 motor, or JVC, Kenwood, or Pioneer motors.

http://i41.tinypic.com/2cy448h.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/aekwvk.jpg

Motor stator removed
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a29.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a2a.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a2f.jpg

Bearing housing
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a2b.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a2c.jpg

Bearing shaft
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a21.jpg

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Hiho, I stand corrected. I am not sure the four screws you highlighted are the ones that do the trick. They may just secure the circumferential part of the brake system. However, the other photos clearly prove it can be done. Where the heck did you get these nice photos? I treated my Mk3 like it was inviolate, because it was NOS. I did not give much thought to explanting the motor. It would be very very easy to make a sturdy plinth for the motor alone, based on your photos. IMO, the major gain would be to facilitate the use of more than one tonearm, because the remainder of the chassis is very solid, not likely to be a source of resonance or noise. In stock form, if one wishes to use two tonearms, the secondary one will have to be at least a 10-incher, if not a 12".