Nude Turntable Project

Hi Chris,
As always....I appreciate your response.
I'm happy indeed if I helped in some small way for you to enjoy your wonderful system even more?

I think your 19 lb arm-pod is both heavy and stable enough?
What most people will surprised to learn is that the deflection (and movement) of the cantilevered outboard arm-boards of the big Micro turntables and the Raven AC.....is a magnitude greater than any differential movement in a reasonably thick common shelf on which a separate deck and arm-pods may be mounted.
This can easily be demonstrated mathematically via structural analysis.
Seeing that many audiophiles staunchly advocate the superiority of the big Micros over many SOTA new decks........I don't believe your concerns about a 'floating' armpod are warranted? :-)

Regards
Henry

I don't believe your concerns about a 'floating' armpod are warranted?

Hi Henry – I have had this armpod for quite a while now. I am not concerned about floating. It hasn’t moved. This has to do with resonance and vibrations. I will change their patterns if I change to a rigid directly coupled armpod. I want to hear this change.

My SP10MKII is my PET project. Its role in my setup is all about learning from it. This cannot stop. Its the perfect candidate with the motor, bearing, spindle, platter so close to one another to learn more about resonances.

My DD setup is very flexible by design, so I can experiment with little effort really. I have a spare set of SS legs from version 3 with the points – the machinist will cut these and put threads in for me. The armpod has three threads for spiking or bolting. The bolts would come through the base (plinth) up into the armpod. No big deal. I want to see if I hear any differences. If I don’t like it, the armpod can be converted to free standing anytime – its reversible. No Risk , Nothing ventured, Nothing gained.

Fwiw - I have probably hit the limits with the SP10MKII and that is ok too. To me like I say in “Goldilocks and the three turntables “ on my system page. The SP10MKII sounds like it is just trying too hard to be accurate. I think it needs a little LESS CORRECTION if possible, and still be able to maintain STABILITY to make it better. Its a balance. Right now the correction piece is the Alpha. So if I have hit the limits with it. I am ok with that. Maybe one day I will pull off the cover underneath and have a look to see what can be done to better isolate what is in there. For what the setup cost $1500 - not including tonearm. I don’t think it can be beat in that price range. What does $1500 buy you today.

BTW – I recommend still that you isolate your victor and the armpods on a separate shelf. There will be a definite audible change. Easy enough to experiment with a piece of material and three or four footers.

Seeing that many audiophiles staunchly advocate the superiority of the big Micros over many SOTA new decks

Henry - Not familiar with the Micros - but I can tell you my Verdier raised the bar high – really high. Every day it amazes me more and more because I learn how to set it up better. I think this design has been around for a while too?

Cheers

Dear victor tt 101 owners:

Mine is currently at a shop and I'd like to return the table to its original condition, but unfortunately previous owners seemed to have messed with it. In particular,

1: the bearing seal has been opened even though the manual asserts that it does not require lubrication. Since it has been compromised already, I'm looking to see what kind of lubrication I should use. Evidently, there is a distinction between grease and oil. Should I care? The guy who runs the kenwood l07d site says the best oil for that table is Redline pure synthetic 20 weight racing oil. Anyone care to offer an opinion on this? I literally don't know a single thing about this matter. I see, Aigenga, that you have opened up the bearing casing and used Mobil 1. Was there a reason for that choice?

2. In the service manual, it shows a round 'rubber sheet' (part 45_ that sits below the platter (surrounding the motor casing). Does everyone have that piece? Mine doesn't. If yours has it, can you do me a favor and measure the thickness. I'll try to rig something. Aigenga: you note above that you cut some 3m material to place under the platter (you linked to a pic of it). Did you replace the stock rubber sheet with the 3m?

thanks.

Hi Banquo,
My TT-101 appears to be original and untampered with?
HEREis a photo of the rubber sheet (part 45) glued to the underside of the platter. It appears to be approx. 1mm thick?

Regards

I was wondering how the sheet was placed. So, it's glued. Thanks, Halcro!