A Copernican View of the Turntable System

I have asked some folks who have gone down this path using various metals in an isolated arm pod to post their comments here. I hope they will be able to provide their input.

To me if I had a tonearm with collar - just preliminary thoughts - but anyway to be DIY - You would need to drill collar diameter holes through both the brass cylinder and the top plate and set the spikes high enough to allow the wires to clear. Drilling the holes is easy for a machine shop. The top plate (aluminum?) just needs to be thick enough to allow the tonearm collar to grip and be tightened - then it can be set down on top of the brass cylinder and secured. This could be done by the DIY. Anything more would obviously require a machine shop.

Dear Nandric - I am growing fond of the brass cylinder "as is" and based on what I am hearing am reluctant now to have it taken apart and changed at all.

Cheers

Nandric,

If you buy some aluminium plate (eBay often has various thickness of these at very reasonable prices!) you can make a variety of interchangeable arm plates for the top of your tower(s). The carftsman is therefore only challenged with drilling a hole down the length of the cylinder (55mm in Halcro's and my intended case) and a 30-40mm hole running lower across the cylinder and into the vertical 55mm hole (for the phono cable to run through). That's two holes in total and the weight will be the same as Halcro's.

I already have M6 and M8 taps, drills and footers so no cost there. If not already in possession then, anyone can find these (as I think Chris has suggested) for a very reasonable price from their local hardware store. Three holes tapped for the base spikes; three holes tapped for the attaching armplate. I don't think this is too large a challenge for most on this site. Worth considering I think.

i have been speaking with chris about this thread. he had seen pics of my armpod. you guys are very passonite about this. that's great to see.
my design requirements were to have adjust-ability for azimuth, vta (sra) and flexibility for different arms. the pics show a breuer, but i have already replaced that with a davinci.
i have mounted arms to the armpod that have the wiring come through the pivot point and out the bottom, so a surface mount would not work. i had to use an armboard mounted on a post, on the armpod, to offset the arm. this allows the wiring to exit through the bottom.
pics here:
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/view_userimages.php?user_id=600
and here :
http://cgim.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/vs.pl?vaslt&1245187375&viewitem&o5
don

Nice solution Corby.
Can you explain how the VTA adjustment and arm height works via the vertical rod?

Corby, That's quite beautiful work. Do you mean to imply that you adjust azimuth by tilting the whole apparatus via the screw-threaded spikes at the base? Don't you think it's important to have the arm base (=the outboard pod) in a plane parallel to the platter?