Garrard 301-Worth the effort?

Agreed with JHendrixfan to keep it to the pro restoration companies like Artisan Fidelity (thornton), Dobbinss ect, ect.. to get the most out of these vintage decks. I heard a modded Lenco in a big modern system before and it was just incredible and spectacular but it was also modded and plinthed by a pro who clearly understood what to do with the thing to make it sound that way. People think sometimes you can head to your garage, take your hacksaw, drillpress, sandpaper and whatever and do what the top restoration mod companies do but they are totally wrong. It would be like saying that since I can fiddle with a Chevy LS1 small block V8 that I can do what Lingenfelter does with Corvette, which is ridiculous..you guys get the idea.

HiFiGuy (Dave)
I just saw your post last night, sorry I haven't paid attention. I think you need to fashion the weight on the string for your anti-skate if you already haven't. Otherwise, I don't know how you can set the anti-skate. If you need to know the particulars, let me know, I'm a pharmacist with access to accurate scales, so I can weigh mine and measure the length. I also have an SME tonearm that uses a similar setup, I can check to see if the parts are interchangeable or similar. SME parts are available over the net.
The lateral balance is in my opinion not as critical as the anti-skate. Imagine the shaft of your tonearm as the fuselage of a plane and the cartridge as an engine on one wing. The lateral weight balances the tonearm like putting the weight of another engine on the opposite wing.
I have read the pros and cons of anti-skate, some people don't use it at all so I think you can still operate your tonearm safely. I personally believe in using anti-skate so I would recommend making or purchasing a weight.
The lateral weight is a nice idea but even Harmon Kardon was vague about calibrating it in the manual. I also have a T60 with a tonearm by ito that lacks the lateral weight. It plays fine.
Between the two tables however, I definitely prefer the sound of the T65C, so maybe there's something to those 2 weights, maybe it's something else. Good luck and let me know if you need the measurements. Rich

Jhendrixfan,
First off, I like your username. Surprisingly, the 301 is in excellent shape considering it's age. No dust to speak of, the only problems were the hardened grease and cracked original mat. Didn't see any other problems such as spindle run-out even when measured with dial indicator. I couldn't even measure a flat spot on the idler using that method but planned on replacing it anyway due to it's age. The mat will also be replaced. I'll check the other spindles for run-out when I devote myself to the project again and replace as I see fit. Electrically, the arrestor seemed fine, but honestly I haven't checked it with a meter yet. Otherwise, this thing's a cherry.
Jeremy..Really? I'm not some guy with a hacksaw and drill press. I've been woodworking and cabinet making for over 20 years and don't generally compromise or cut corners. I really do measure twice and cut once and quit at the first sign of fatigue. The key to woodworking is patience. I planned on measuring for the resonant frequencies of each assembly as well to tune the plinth. I wouldn't think of damaging such a finely engineered instrument by modifying it having trust and respect for the designer's choices. Interestingly, the 301 was provided with plans for a plinth, so I guess they thought it was possible for a guy in his garage to pull it off.
My original post was whether or not it was worth it. In automotive terms, I would liken it to a Corvette Stingray that needs a new set of tires and a good once over. I realize now of course it's worth it. In my experience, owners usually make the best restorers, viewing their projects as labors of love. I don't really want anybody else messing with "my baby".
Will the final product be "The Best", who knows? Can someone else do it better? Why not? Every "pro" I've met is in it for the money, just because they charge an arm and a leg doesn't make their work any better than another individual with skills. In my experience, owners can do the best work and know their stuff inside and out, if they take the time.

"If you are more of a consumer and music lover (listener) and want something that once it is set up properly just works and works there are far better turntables made nowadays."

Which ones are those? I ask as a user of a 301 which "just works and works".

regards, Dave

Thanks. Like everything in life it is a matter of time, money and effort. I fiddled with 301's to my heart's delight and ultimately moved on (TW Acustic Baby Raven). Why?
Because the 301 appears simple but is actually quite complex and needs a BIG investment to reach its full potential - even when doing the work yourself.
Plus in the end I realized that I love music and not "fiddling" around all that much. I wanted to spend my time listening instead of constantly feeling like I was "auditioning" my turntable set-up.
Enjoy! :)

IMHO, the biggest "trick" is the idler wheel. If nothing else - buy a new one one from the guy in the U.K. ($100?).
The lower/bottom main bearing replacement made by Kokomo in Germany is another "most bang for the buck" upgrade as well.
301/401 idler wheels are quite intense from an engineering & manufacturing standpoint BUT they are rubber and they ALL outgas, shrink and harden with age. So unless they spent all their time in a cold place (dry ice, liguid Nitrogen, etc.) then they are are bad after 50+ years. Yes they may still run & have no flat spots but believe me the property of the material has changed significantly.
So why the controversy?
Well it is the idler wheel bearing that causes the confusion when changing idler wheels. So sometimes a new wheel needs to be burnished to fit an old bearing. Not a biggie but it is important to do it. The wheel must spin very freely and be of proper diameter to DRIVE the inside face of the platter properly. That is where the PRAT is at!
As for Plinths - old adage is very true. First separate/isolate the tonearm from the deck (most designs do not do this!) and heavier is better (the 301 base plate itself is VERY light!
Lastly, NEVER touch-up the platter - especially an early one! Whether grey or black those bare platters have a resonance to them (like a bell) and repainting will kill it! Do NOT paint them, add copper, etc. etc.. Nor do you need clamps or spindle weights!
MATS - get the Loricraft neoprene/cork strobe cut-out mat.
It is the absolute best - bar none! The original mat is BLAH! Nice to look at but not great sound. The neoprene cork is terrific and the the hole for the garrard strobe disk has a "pull down" effect on the record towards the spindle. I simply used some two-sided plastic tape in a few spots to keep it positioned on the platter.

Oh, one last thing...301 LOVES mass (no not the Catholic type! although... Gregorian chants by Enigma 1990("turn off the lights...") do sound very good on it!). By that I mean medium-heavy mass tonearm/lower compliance cartridges. So a modern example would be a Schick tonearm with a Denon DL-103R cartridge. Older example would be an ESL or FR-66 with an SPU cartridge.
I'm presuming that your friend GAVE you the turntable?
Or you purchased it from them?
Either way it is a very nice & worthwhile piece of vintage HiFi.