Where is the next generation of direct drive?

Downunder, i have own most of the list you suggested :)
I have a P3a not P3, the biggest different between the two is the tonearm. The P3 tonearm use rubber decouple for the counterweight shaft, overtime time it may sag a bit, just like my P10. It also lack the active resonator absorber on the arm tube. The P3a arm on the other hand use rigid couple on the conterweight shaft. The armtube is different and equip with the active resonator absorber. With P3a arm you get a very low distortion and direct lively sound. You should hunt for the arm to realize the full potential of this TT. They are truly superb....

Hi Snake

You are abvioulsy a smart music lover and probably paid half the price for 6 tables connpared to the inflated price of the one new expensive DD table. P3a arm is hard to come by by its self.
Yes, I am aware of the differnces as my friend has the p3a arm. My P3 arm is perfectly straight as well as my p10, well maybe 99.95%. P3 looks a little bit better.

As you well know, the damping fluid has more infulyence on the sound than anything else.

Hammy, Your quote about motor noise in a dd turntable shows that you do not understand the mechanism. You should read Hiho's post above, as well as a few others that came after yours. A motor consists of a rotor and a stator. In a dd turntable, the platter and the rotor are one and the same thing, so there can be no vibration of the kind you describe. Also, it would not hurt to listen to a properly restored and re-plinthed vintage dd before you make up your mind. If you listen to an old piece of junk that has leaky aged electrolytic caps inside, that's OK with me, but don't judge the whole genre on that basis. At this point in my audio life, and after 35 years of listening mostly to bd turntables, I have fallen irrevocably in love with a few great idler and dd turntables that I restored/replinthed to a high level, and I ain't goin' back.

I second Lewm, the DD motor design and running at low speed will not create noise. especially true with the massive overengineered one. The only time noise creep in is either cause by worn bearing or lack of lubrication.

Downunder, i am aware of the damping fluid but i never use it. i never be able to get a natural reproduction when damping set in. Each cartridge have their own overtone, the damping will kill the overtone. Of course depending on cartridge sylus you use, some stylus produce unbearable distortion and hightone. The damping would be able to tame it down but at the same time it will also kill the natural reproduction tone on the music. You can try to set the damping to zero and see if you like the result.

i've been a big direct drive and idler fan for quite a few years. i've owned 3 upgraded direct drive (and idler) vintage tt's; the Dobbins Technics SP-10 Mk2 and Mk3, and the Dobbins Garrard 301. i've had the GPA Monaco (6 year old design) in my room for a year, and the Rockport Sirius III (16 year old design) for 9 years. recently i've had a couple of the most recently designed direct drives, the Beat, and now the NVS.

every one of these direct drive tables are quiet, really very quiet. even the Garrard 301, when fitted with the Dobbins copper top platter, is quiet. the NVS is likely the quietest tt i have yet (not) heard.

so there is no reason that a direct drive turntable cannot be quiet. it does take more effort and technology to create a competent direct drive system than a belt drive system.

further; there are many excellent belt driven tuirntables.....all of which would sound better with direct drive. i'm not one of those people who thinks it's all 'execution'; the best approach has the highest potential. past a certain point that better approach passes well executed inferior approaches.