What defines a good tonearm


I'm in the market for a very good tonearm as an upgrade from an SME 345 (309). Most of the tonearms I have used in the past are fixed bearing except for my Grace 704 unipivot. I dont have a problem with the "wobble" of a unipivot, and they seem the simplest to build, so if they are generally at least as good as a fixed pivot, why wouldnt everyone use a unipivot and put their efforts into developing easier vta, azimuth and vtf adjustments, and better arm materials. Or is there some inherent benefit to fixed pivot that makes them worth the extra effort to design and manufacture
manitunc
Dear Hiho: I like choices too and I'm not married with any audio subject.

About that " very low bearing friction ": the main subject to me is not if you or other people have it( I really don't care about. ) but that you and other people are " spreading " as an advantage that LBF and my first question to my self is: hey where that statement came?

IMHO and when we are discussing something of interest for several persons we can't ( certainly we can as almost all of us used to do it in forums. ) spread information with out any single " reference "/foundation.
How can we " validate " what other person said it if ( even if had it . ) the persons does not gives any " foundation " to his statements?

I don't agree any more with that common: " Paul is correct " with out any explanation on : why is correct? because I say so? or the more common " I like it " with no additonal explanation.
I know that this is a free forum about but we have to think that at least we all need to understand what the other pérson said or at least be near of it.

In the case of that LBF I think that the spec/number is important because no one here knows what could be a " very low friction " or what is VLF for you.

I try almost always post ( on agree or disagreements. ) for we can ( try at least ) have near the same subject perspective, try to have a reference overall frame. Yes, because my trouble with the English language many times I don't achieve that target.

I think that we are " here " to share audio experiences and to learn and IMHO we can enrich each one opinions along the " forum values " if we can/try to put a " tiny touch of objectivity " in our judgements/statements/posts against the usual: 100% subjectivity. I know that almost every one of us likes to improve his music/audio knowledge/skills and ignorance level and I think that what I'm " proposing " could help about.

Anyway, only an opinion.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.
Well, I am afraid I just can't decide which design is inherently better based on all of your arguments, but I find it very funny there are a lot of fine tonearms of different designs that all succeed in doing a fine job (provided they are matched with compliant cartridges).

Everyone seems to aggree playback is never ideal. You might argue if it's very important to be able to play warped LP's, but I would certainly prefer to flatten them rather than demanding the tonearm to be able to follow the warps. Excentricity is another matter, does one realy enjoy music when so much wow is introduced?

And there is yet another aspect that hasn't been mentioned before. The main job of a tonearm is to keep the cartridge still while it tracks the groove walls. In stereo the signals are cut in 45º angles, with a horizontal and a vertical component. The stylus assembly of course has a very low moving mass compared to the 'fixed' tonearm plus cartridge body, but nevertheless will cause a reaction. Groove modulation may even affect the speed of turntables! So idealy (and only from this point of view) the tonearm mass should be as high as possible, infinetly high to overcome this problem completely. But a very high tonearm mass would obviously introduce a whole lot of other problems... But then again, sound reproduction with records, cartridges, tonearms and a record player is an extremely complicated affair with a whole lot of mechanical subsystems that constantly interact. Everything in designing this gear, including tonearms, is about dealing with contradictory demands and compromising. In fact, almost everything in life is.

And how about tonearm geometry? You may like Baerwadl's, Loefgren's or Stevenson's alignments, fact is on certain rcords one will be better while another will suit other ones better, just depending on where the strongest modulations are.

To return to the original question ,"what defines a good tonearm" may simply boil down to a only one principle. Try and remedy known disadvantages while not introducing or augmenting others. A good design is one that prooves the designer cares. And he would preferably care more for music than for the actual design. I wouldn't argue the value of fine craftmanship, build quality or even looks, but how an arm does it's job is most important. Matching components, a proper set-up and proper maintenance will always help you get the most from any given piece of equipment, regardless of it's design.

So, while it is fascinating to explore the technical aspects involving our hobby, what I find truly amazing is how a crude and necessarily compromised way of reproducing music from a piece of profiled vinyl can be so succesfull in allowing us to truly enjoy the music! I have and have had several fine cartridges and a couple of tonearms. While all of them had specific and distinguishable qualities, most of them succeed in involving music making that makes me forget everything else.

regards, franz
Yes, Franz. The tonearm is like the bumblebee. All logic says neither can fly, but both do. I would take issue with several of your presumptions in this last post, but I am too tired.... OK, one thing: do not waste your affection on a particular tonearm geometry over any other.
Dan_ed: "Hiho, are you beginning to see the religious nature of all of this?"

Indeed. As Luis Bunuel would say, "Thank God I'm an atheist."

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