From Peterayer
As this is a thread about turntable speed accuracy, I'm curios to know if Albert or anyone has tested the NVS with a TimeLIne?
From Dev
So when using the TimeLine on the NVS what are the results?
From Halcro
Albert and Lew,
You don't specifically mention it......but I assume the SP10-3 maintained its speed with and without the cartridge tracking the groove?
Also Albert......you don't specifically mention if the NVS passed the Timeline test with equal aplomb?
So far, only the Technics MK3 passed of all the tables I've checked. The laser is absolutely steady state on precisely the same spot without LP.
Repeat again, cartridge in the groove and heavily modulated material (Massive Attack, Heligoland) and still on the same spot. In fact, the MK3 can play the same LP (either 33 or 45) two or three times, all the way through, picking up the arm and re cuing to the beginning multiple times. Same spot on the wall in the end.
We used Scotch painters tape on the wall to be sure we don't mistake where the laser is supposed to be.
The NVS did not pass the test. However, neither has any other table so far. Either the MK3 is highly accurate, or whatever it's errors, it's in precise conjunction and sync with the Timeline.
Halcro mentioned rim drive. I've posted my opinion before on this, apologies in advance to those that have read it. Each design has strengths, perhaps a diagram should be made up so you could view what each contributes to the sound.
Mind you, this is opinion ! I do not have scientific data. It's much like my support for aftermarket power cables here at Audiogon in 1999. I got in trouble for that too :^), although that seems to be more flame proof as time goes on.
OK, what we want in a turntable:
(1) Enough torque that it ABSOLUTELY rocks through the material without even a microscopic slow down.
(2) Consistent speed, preferably perfect but not a deal killer if "slightly" and consistently fast or slow.
(3) Freedom from speed error. Wow and Flutter. This stuff matters a lot, we pick this up.
(4) Last and obvious, freedom from all noise, both mechanical and electrical.
Probably other things or variations of these but you get the idea.
What each design does:
BELT DRIVE: Typically poor on #1, some are good on #2, varies on #3 by brand and condition of parts. Typically great on #4 due to separation of motor from platter, although some can have noisy bearings.
RIM or IDLER DRIVE: Many are excellent on #1, typically good on #2, varies on #3 (some not so hot), dependant on model and parts condition. Typically less than ideal on #4, motor in direct contact which is difficult to keep absolutely silent.
DIRECT DRIVE: Varies on #1 depending on power of motor and design of system, from near perfection to bland. Typically excellent on #2. Typically good on #3 with some models approaching perfection. Good to near perfect on #4 depending on model and condition.
What I've discovered about myself and from long term listening is I fall distinctly into the "high torque" consistent speed category. That means my favorite sound is a high torque direct drive with idler right behind. A low torque direct drive is next and belt drive last.
Of course my comments are easy targets. For instance, a well tuned Micro Seiki has more torque than other typical belt drives.
Error number two, some direct drives have electronic noise leaking through their platters which make them sound "cold" or what some describe as jitter. Electronic noise can be really bad as it "flashes" the cartridge.
My statements are GENERALITIES that are ripe for picking, it's complicated but this is a very rough start and only a simplistic attempt to explain why turntable designs "tend" to sound a certain way.
I know all the holes that can be poked in this, discussion of arms, set up and such. I'm just saying that these rough rules for turntables are like clumping horn speakers, cone speakers and electrostatics into categories to explain why they behave a certain way.
