Turntable speed accuracy


There is another thread (about the NVS table) which has a subordinate discussion about turntable speed accuracy and different methods of checking. Some suggest using the Timeline laser, others use a strobe disk.

I assume everyone agrees that speed accuracy is of utmost importance. What is the best way to verify results? What is the most speed-accurate drive method? And is speed accuracy really the most important consideration for proper turntable design or are there some compromises with certain drive types that make others still viable?
peterayer
ΟΚ, but we have to decide about the correlation between motor's torque and platter's inertia, the amount of belt's grip or slippage, the speed, the distance and diameter of the pulley in correlation with the desired circumferance of contact around the platter, a magnetic, hydraulic or pneumatic preloaded break ... So many things to consider and we have to know precisely the correct values in order to cooperate and fulfill the purpose of correction at the time the platter asks for. As the motor commands the correction and the drug varies continuously, the transitional stages of the driveline must be zeroed, it seems that it is a critical point in every part that meets the criteria. A golden ratio for everything.
No argument here. It does use fishing line for a drive belt, which would have little elasticity, at least.
Albert, I know the engineer well who designed the mods for the SP10mk3.
Will be very interested to see your feedback. One point to consider, you may be better to get the bearing mod and review the impact before the electronics mods, or you will be unable to discern what has done what. You wont know whether the bearing or electronics mod is a positive or negative unless you do one step at a time.
Dover,

Considering the shipping risk and time needed to get in line at Music Technology I don't have that luxury. Should I be worried about the electronics mods?

The oil and paper is the only change since my MK3 has already had every possible electronic part and adjustment performed long ago and I'm completely familiar with the sound of that.

I'm skipping the lead block mod on the bearing well. I'm nervous about the sound of lead plus I have my version of that as damping rod and block on my Panzerholz plinth.

That leaves only the oil and paper mods I think. Bill says they are harmless electrically and only provide damping. Do you have any listening experience with these mods?
Hi Albert - no that sounds fine. The engineers modus operandi is that he overbuilds everything, which is great. I have heard the SP10 mk3 but unfortunately in a system, which although I have followed the evolution, I don't know what is doing what. That's why I'm interested in your feedback. Your bearing mod makes sense to me, wicking the energy away. There may be advantages to your solution in that if the energy is higher up the frequency scale a harder conduit ie the rod into the lead may be more effective than just sinking the bearing directly to a lead block. Unless we AB it we'll never now. The electronics should be fine if Bill is OK. Good luck.