Upgrade Superscoutmaster or Buy Classic 3?


I have a superscoutmaster with the 9 inch signature arm and the older black platter,not the superplatter.

I plan on upgrading it with the classic platter,rim drive and probably the classic 3 tonearm.I could do this in steps,rim drive and platter,then tonearm,or visa,versa.

I could sell the ssc and get the classic 3 which already has the tonearm and the platter.Any thought on which way to go would be appreciated.Since , I already have the ssc, would you upgrade it and skip the classic 3?

My cartridge is a Dynavector XX2mk11 and the phono stage is a Zesto Andros.I had read the review in the magazine enjoy the music of adding the rim drive and the classic platter which took the ssc to a much higher level of fidelity.
Thanks
moonguy
I haven't heard the Classic 3, but upgrading my Scoutmaster to a Super Scoutmaster Rim Drive was the best money I have spent in years!

The Rim Drive is so quiet, fast, and dynamic I would have a hard time going back to a belt drive.

I have the Super Platter but I just ordered the Classic Platter from Music Direct. I also plan on keeping the JMW 9 Signature for now.

I also have a SRA platform on order to replace the butcher block I have been using.

Tom
I have the Super Scoutmaster Reference with rimdrive, 10.5i tonearm, and SDS, and am very happy with it. It started out originally as a regular Super Scoutmaster with 9 inch arm and acrylic platter. I now have the Classic Platter, upgraded from the Super Platter. This has taken several years from the original Super Scoutmaster. I prefer the sound of the Classic platter which is much more lively then the Super Platter, and offers better performance for rimdrive, as it is more accurately machined.

My suggestion is to upgrade your existing Super Scoutmaster to Rimdrive Reference, with 10.5i tonearm, Classic platter, and order a set of 4 brass Bear Paws from Edensound for the feet- much better than the VPI mini HRX footers. Also, order 2 round precision couplers ($20 each) from Symposium Acoustics and put below the SAMA- one in front in between the existing rubber feet, and the other in the rear between the 2 rubber feet. This also improves performance and sound.

The rimdrive needs to be precisely adjusted against the platter, not too much pressure, and just enough for constant contact on the platter, so that when you turn off the motor, the platter stops after about 1 to 1.5 revolutions. Make sure the distance between the SAMA and plinth are equidistant and the SAMA is centered alongside. This all is easier to do than I make it sound. The rimdrive has much better drive, bass, rhythm, and timing versus the belt drive.

I use VPI's periphery ring clamp and a Black Diamond Racing carbon fiber clamp (1 piece model). The table and SAMA sit on a Symposium Acoustics Ultra platform. My Edensound brass feet sit in small round black aluminum couplers with center dimple from Symposium Acoustics.

With the now upgraded Super Scoutmaster to Reference Rimdrive you already have the stand-alone 2 motor assembly (SAMA) for extremely quiet and isolated performance from the platter and plinth, versus the Classic 3 which has the single motor built into the plinth.

A properly adjusted cartridge is very important. I suggest the Mint LP protractor. Takes patience but is extremely precise and provides better sound and tracking. Make sure the turntable is exactly level. I used the Cartridge Man Digital level which has made audible improvement in the overall sound quality and ensures perfect level results, much better than a bubble level, and very important for the unipivot tonearm.

The result is sonic bliss- very musical, effortless, natural, wonderful sound, and IMO, well worth the effort!
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