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Upgrade Superscoutmaster or Buy Classic 3?

I have a superscoutmaster with the 9 inch signature arm and the older black platter,not the superplatter.

I plan on upgrading it with the classic platter,rim drive and probably the classic 3 tonearm.I could do this in steps,rim drive and platter,then tonearm,or visa,versa.

I could sell the ssc and get the classic 3 which already has the tonearm and the platter.Any thought on which way to go would be appreciated.Since , I already have the ssc, would you upgrade it and skip the classic 3?

My cartridge is a Dynavector XX2mk11 and the phono stage is a Zesto Andros.I had read the review in the magazine enjoy the music of adding the rim drive and the classic platter which took the ssc to a much higher level of fidelity.
Thanks
moonguy
tnewell1
10 posts
 
I was considering upgrading to the Classic Arm from the JMW 9 Signature but think I will stay with the 9. I have 4 Arm wands with 4 different cartridges.

Once I get the Classic Platter (arrives tomorrow) and when I receive the SRA platform (on Order), I think I will be finished upgrading my SSM Rim Drive.

I added the Edensound Terrastone footers a while back which resulted in a big improvement.

Looking forward to spending more money on records in 2013.
moonguy OP
148 posts
 
Tnewell
Can you let me know what you think of the classic platter after you listen for a while.I already have the Eden Sound terra footers with the adjustable brass.

I am thinking of taking the SSC off of the ginko clould platform.It seems everytime I make an adjustment to the brass footers that the platform shifts or a ball shifts throwing the level adjustment off.

I m thinking it may be just better having the SSC on the shelf without the ginko platform.I see Herbies audio lab makes after market balls for the ginko platforms which are suppose to be better.Maybe that would help out.
hiendmuse
257 posts
 
Get rid of the Gingko cloud platform. I had a Gingko cloud under my SSM with rimdrive and it caused the table and tonearm to wobble. The table and tonearm should remain stable and not move or rock. I replaced it with a Symposium Acoustics Ultra Shelf. You are better off just placing the table directly on a shelf rack as long as it is level and solid.
tnewell1
10 posts
 
Moonguy,

The Classic Platter is a keeper! Popped off my Super Platter and cleaned the bearing and then slid the Classic onto the bearing.

Instantly noticed a larger soundstage. Wider and deeper. Noticed a bit more detail. I'll do more listening this weekend.

I still need to dial in VTA as the Classic is a little taller than the Super Platter.

I used to have a Gingko under my Scoutmaster. Those Herbies balls make the platform rock solid. You have to really push it to make it move. You might want to give them a try. I used 5 balls.

Tom
bpoletti
1,552 posts
 
I agree with getting rid of the gingko.

If the table is using belt drive, consider three Still Points under the table, four Vibrapods under the motor. If using rim drive, get a good shelf system and place the motor / drive assembly on a separate sliding platform. The table and rim drive need to have a solid and stable point of contact. The table MUST sit on a solid platform that won't move. The rim drive must be on a surface that will only slide horizontally but yet have a solid, unwavering contact point with the platter.
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