Cable Costs Relative to System


Since making a spread sheet with my audio system prices, I have been thinking(shocked) about my total investment in cables. My total system retails at $67,000 (Digital and analog front ends included). I purchased all of it here on Audiogon so my investment is about 50%. Of that I have about 10% invested in interconnects and cables and another 10% in Power Cables (Shunyata Hydra included). That's $13,000 worth of wire. I'm starting to question whether it might be more effective to put some of this budget into acitve components. It would take forever to listen to all possible combinations, but would like to hear others experiences with relatively high end systems and cable selection. It would seem to me that the point of diminishing returns would be reached sooner with cables than with speakers and amps. Do most of you follow the 10% "rule" for cabling? How do PCs fit into this rule? Are there any super bargain cables capable of keeping up with highly resolving electronics?
metaphysics
Juicebox, buy whatever turns you on. Don't go into debt doing it, though, it's clear you are already suffering from cable madness.
The Jerry Springer Show would be a great place to hold this discussion. We could also take a few people who have disputes, too and bring some big 16 oz boxing gloves to have matters settled...in public! Of course, we would have pretty *mamis* in bikinis walking w/ signs between rounds...

If you guys knew what I'm using for speaker wire and how little I paid for it you'd flip. And it has specifications! Silver plated copper, 12 ga, 37 strands, twisted, Teflon insulated pairs & dipped in Teflon. Awesome performance for a mere $16.25 per 25 ft. The real deal.
The most perfect power cable is only as good as the romex in the wall!. I am sitting in front of my system right now (listening to a GREAt Oscar Peterson CD, I might add), contemplating a fancy power cord. My System is mid to lower cost for this hobby, with about $4400 retail invested with (2) sets of AQ Diamond XLR interconnects and AQ Caldera Bi-wre. (All bought used, total outlay about $1400). My Martin Logans seem to easily reveal the difference between these cables and the MIT stuff I started out with, so I do believe cable makes a significant difference.

I Also have some hospital grade Hubell receptacles. BUT: comming into the receptacles is a dedicated line I ran myself. It is a 60 foot run of 12 gauge Romex, bought at Home Depot. It connects through a Square D Breaker. The breaker is mounted to a plated copper bar in the breaker box, which then runs to the service. It Goes through the utilities meter.

So, If I buy a perfect power cord, the best it can do is take the power the 3 feet from the wall receptacle and deliver it to the amp.

Now, My classe 301 came with a fairly decent ICc cord, as did my Audio Research LS 16. I Think both of these cords are way better than the wire in the walls, and they sure seem like they would have less loss than my breaker box.

It seems like my cables should not be the limiting factor in my power system, so, I don't see why I would want to spend money to "improve" them.

Actually, the best money I spent yet on my system was the Tube Traps and other room tuning. I think, dollar for dollar, the biggest improvements can be had with room treatment.

Just my 2 cents. I will duck now in anticipation of the flames to follow;)
Let me have my 15 minutes of fame. We live in a less than perfect world. The only thing constant is change. Mistakes have been made & theor dis proven but what we hear and see can not be totally relied upon as TRUTH. Conserning the powercable. The device is only an extention of the power company that energy is transfered from and thru many substations & routes before it enters your home and finds it`s way into your system. No matter how refined the the electronic instrument is it shares the same energy matter that is common to all. We can not improve upon this at the present time unless we generate our own power which is possible if we have the cost effective means and the dollars to spend. Perhaps this has been tried. I don`t know. Any one who reads this and has ventured into or has knowledge of the same please advise. It would be interesting reading. As for the POWER CABLE QUESTION ??? After reading some of the threads I thought., HEY ICAN DO THIS MYSELF. Considering that all of the electrical service into my home was generic and copper ROMEX was behind the wall why not just extend the ROMEX as close to the system as possible and this would solve the whole problem. BUT being the finiky person that I am this was my answere to my own question to the neverending quest for perfection in Audiophileland. FIRST. A dedicated line was installed from the breaker/fuse box useing generic 12/2WG ROMEX. Making sure that the connection(s) in the box were clean and positive. Chemicals used to clean the wire was NoOx and De Oxit. The romex was routed as far as possible from all other wire to isolate it. The romex was threaded thru 1/2" copper household plumbing water pipe. In line prior to the wall receptical I obtained a DU-3 isolation transformer. I then installed a steel duplex receptical outlet box and used a 20 amp GFI dupex recepical. SECONDLY: I purchased a 5/8" copper shielded steel ground rod and hammered it into the ground. Next, I installed a ground wire to it and connected the ground wire to the copper pipe outside shielding to bleed off and RFI / EMI. THIRDLY; I made the connections in the receptical box makeing sure all connections were clean and with the use of DeOxit to perserve the same. NEXT. To extend the power from the receptical I used 12/3WG ROMEX and threaded it thru a lenght of FLEXIBLE CONDUIT. This was tricky but paste floor wax on the Romex helped. After the ends were cut & making sure I had enough wire to work with., I installed HUBBLE HOSPITAL GRADE connections on the respective ends The THIRD WIRE within the BX cabel was stripped on lthe end and bent back to make contact with the BX conduit. Thid served as a dielectric to reject RFI/EMI. My first instrment to plug into the service was MONSTER CABLES HTS-2500 MkII. All other components & instruments were pluged/connected into the system. Upon turning the system on the improvement was to my satisfact -ion and the noise was lowered much more than it had been before. Let me tell you this: It is so quiet that you can hear a mouse pee on cotton!!. SUMMING EVERYTHING UP. I would like to share this with you. You ask God to let you see straight and write strait. "A critic can neither see straight or write straight until he comes to terms with who he is, until he faces== indeed, embraces==the realization that what he knows, how he came to know it, and how his mind deals with the knowledge and how he presents it to others are all inescapeably individual, unique, and "SUBJECTIVE" that any other approach to his duties is mere dissembling". This is just food for your thoughts when reading others opinions and reviews and one must in his oun mind when evaluating the same -"Consider The Source" Thanks for your valuable time
just a few thoughts,if you are wanting to stop the noise look into acme true power conditoners and i am not sure what the gfci will acheive in that application