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My system is bright? I need help. thanks

Hi. it is my first time here in this forum. i would appreciate input and help from all of you. No sacrasm or bad langauge please. I had bad experience with other forums in that aspect. music loving people and audiophiles should be an elite, high caliber and classy community. This is rare to find today. Ok Down to the point.

My system
Musical fidelity kw 500 sacd player. I use the tube output.
Musical fidelity kw 500 integrated amp.
speakers:eggleston andra (not andra 2)
speaker cable: satori acoustic zen
interconnects: Nordost baldur and nordost quatrofil RCA
USe a dedicated 20 amp line with regular power cords(came with the gear) and a panamax 20 amp surge protector and filter.

This is in my family room so there is little room for treatment and moving things around.

problem: bright. the highs are killing my ears, after 1-2 hours of listening my ears start to hurt,sometimes 3 minutes. I have to turn the volume down. I tried postioning, it got a little better. I will try acoustic zen silver ref II may be it will help. The sound is otherwise phenomenal, i could be happy with more bass, but overall it is very good. Depth, tranparency, acuity and soundstaging are great. As for mids, i can see the person infront of me,I can hear the articulation of the tongue in the mouth before the words and tunes comes out. no kidding, but not for long because of fatigue.

I would really appreciate your input.
Scientist73
scientist73
listener57
730 posts
 
Historical note - The Quad of England preamps used to have an elaborate set of adjustable tone controls with one of the effects available being to select a shelf-like uniform decrease in the high frequency range: ------------------__________________
Although this was not a true equalizer,
it was very useful in the original heyday of the vinyl LP to help make the high frequency range in recordings uniformly less aggressive.
With the advent of CD "perfect sound forever" the use of such a circuit became virtually extinct in home high end stereo preamplifiers.
This would still represent a quick and useful temporary solution for many systems, although it could not be considered ideal. The modern preamp designers might be able to resuscitate this type of defeatable, shelf-like, tone control. The perception of high frequency brightness, or glare, is definitely a prominent topic of discussion on Audiogon.
During the sometimes lengthy process of trying to achieve ideal high frequency reproduction, why not allow the listener an option to "fake it 'til you make it"?
audphile1's avatar
audphile1
5,258 posts
 
try Shunyata Hydra2. only plug your amp there. But the wall outlet should not be hissing. There's something wrong going on.
scientist73 OP
36 posts
 
Dear listener57

Please clarify , you mean by "there" the outlet in the wall. the hissing is exactly like the hiss of the old tapes wihout the dolby NR on. it igoes up with thvolume at low volumes there is non yo turn the volume you get it. it is there with or without music.

I am not sure a always thought power cords are like snake oil becasue the current is the current what will change. I guess i may change my mind.
scientist73 OP
36 posts
 
I ma sorryprevious message was for audiophile1. mya be i should not write anything at work. thanks
audphile1's avatar
audphile1
5,258 posts
 
Scientist73, I have no idea what is wrong. But in my opinion, the amount of hiss you're getting should not change with different volume settings(although I am not familiar with MF equipment, normally, hiss is not an issue). MF equipment is tubed, so some hiss I guess is normal. The only thing I can think of that's causing the hiss to go up in volume with volume increase on your amp, is that your CD player hisses and the amp just amplifies this hiss. In this case, you won't get rid of it unless you change your cd player.
And by "there" I mean in general, in your set up and not the wall outlet. outlets don't hiss. Power cord will not cure it. I mentioned Shunyata Hydra2 because you were interested in surge protection, which you will get with Hydra. And also because Hydra is a passive unit(no transformers), it should do a fine job by not presenting any kind of barrier for a current flow into your amplifier.
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