Dedicated AC Lines??


I'm new to all of this AC stuff, but grateful to all who post here. I've noticed modest improvements after upgrading the AC cord to my amp (jolida 302B). I added a Shunyata Cobra and a Guardian 4 conditioner. I have what I call one-step-upgrade cables on my Jolida CD player and Jolida Phono Stage (I like to keep it all in the family!). I'm just listening in here and trying to figure out if maybe improving my AC lines would be a better approach. My system is on a circuit with 3 computers and other computer stuff like drive bays and printers. I guess I'm wondering if adding a dedicated line would really do anything. All of this 'noise' surely travels back through the breaker and onto the main bus bar in the panel right? Then right back out to all other circuits in the house, including any dedicated line I would add right? I'm no electrical engineer (just civil/structural).

So if one were to install dedicated lines where do you start? Main panel, service entrance?

What about multiple lines? I've heard one line is better for grounding and hum.
arch7
My lessons learned are similar to Laks, as I have evolved to 6 dedicated circuits with Hubbel outlets, 1 for each for the 2 subs, and 1 for each component (amp, pre, cd and phono). The latter 4 are on a Topaz 4kva iso transformer. An important addition was to add a separate 125va iso in front of the cd to keep it from back contaminating the other 3 circuits. My current AC system is a huge improvement over even a previous single circuit with no other devices being used, such as you are considering.

I highly recommend the bigger Topaz, as it takes both common and transverse mode noise down by 120dB. I found it in a local surplus electrical supply house. This iso has a 90lb iron core so these can be expensive to ship. The size would depend on the rest of your components power needs (should be very conservative - at least 1/3 more capacity than your peak demand).

The smaller Topaz isos do have power cords, such as my 125va, but I would not recommend in room use for anything much larger than this. The larger isos get quite warm (110 deg core) and all hum to some extent.

I would suggest you go forward with a phased approach. First, get onto the next room's separate circuit and upgrade the outlet. Second, run one or more dedicated circuts (separate to the cd if possible) with Hubbel outlets. Third, add an iso in front of the dedicated lines (sources and pre as a minimum). I also suggest you not spend too much time or $ on PCs until you are satisfied with the basic AC system. You may discover, as I have, that there is much less sensitivity to them after the other upgrades.

Have fun!
Arch7,
Good idea trying the Porter Ports and the outlet in another room that has little or no resistance on.
Good point about the “Topaz Isolation Transformers seem to be just plug and play so to speak. They have a standard cord on them and either an outlet or cord coming out. Seems like they can be plugged into an existing outlet rather than being hard wired at the panel.”
Just be cautious regarding the audible hum of 60 dB which might be annoying if they are located in the same room as the music. Also make sure that what ever equipment you plug into it won’t bottom out the transformer, in other words the KVA number is important.
Zargon:
Thanks for your input. Can you tell me more about these Topaz Iso's? Which models, are they hard wired, approx cost? I'm trying to evaluate the cost for all of these potential AC upgrades. Dedicated lines may be tough in my house since the audio gear is located in a room without a basement underneath. It would involve running lines outside the house which would be a mess.
Thanks!
Also Zargon, are you using power conditioners too or does the transformer fix that issue? In other words can i skip for the ISO if i have a decent conditioner? When i move to another house I'll take the AC into account.
Topaz is no longer in business, however, their products are excellent and can be found used in electronic surplus houses of larger cities. I located 2 4kva isos for $300 and have seen them on the internet at $500 plus shipping (both far far less than retail in the 80s). You will need to connect the iso to 1 phase of the main panel and then connect it to a new panel for the dedicated circuits. Unless you are experienced with this type of thing and understand the electrical codes, I suggest an electrician.

I my opinion, the iso precludes the need for further power conditioners and any that I have tried I have since removed with no degredation.

If you get serious about this, I would be willing to share a picture and diagram via email.