Wall Outlet Oyaide, Furutek, Wattgate, and others

Regarding the comments about resistance and voltage drop, as I see it a couple of things should be kept in mind:

1)In the "New Heavyweight Contender" link which Dave provided, the highest resistance shown for any of the receptacles listed is 2.7 milliohms. That is 0.0027 ohms. Even for a large current spike of say 20 amps, that would result in a voltage drop of only 20 x 0.0027 = 0.054 volts (about one-twentieth of a volt). For components other than power amplifiers which draw large amounts of current, the resulting voltage drop would be way less than that.

Given typical gauges and lengths of the house wiring, turning on a 60 watt light bulb that is on the same circuit as the audio system, or leaving a low powered line-level audio component in the system turned on while it is not being used, will result in the AC voltage decreasing by about as much or more than 0.054 volts.

Furthermore, for audio components having regulated power supplies (although that excludes most power amplifiers), that very tiny voltage reduction will be reduced much more by the voltage regulator circuitry in the component.

2)Presumably there is a specific line voltage at which a particular component will sound its best, say 120.0 volts for example. If the AC voltage at the particular location happens to be higher than whatever that number happens to be for a specific component (and it is extremely common these days for AC voltages to be significantly higher than 120 volts), minimizing resistance and consequently voltage drop in the receptacle, the power plug, the power cord, etc., may actually degrade the sound, if it makes any difference at all.

Regards,
-- Al

very good post Almarg, I did not know that a/c voltages could be, and likly higher than 120 volts, if that is true, and I'm sure you have proof, that would change my perspective on the out come of resistance specs for plugs, power cords, and recepticles that you have said here, does it matter?, mmmm, I am learning the opinions from the community, cheers.

Keith (Audiolabyrinth), take a look at this reference, particularly Table 1 on page 2. You'll see that the standard for 120 volt service (at the entrance to the house) is 120 volts +/- 5%, corresponding to a range of 114 volts to 126 volts.

Regards,
-- Al

My outlets normally read 126 to 128 volts.

Al .. I haven’t been completely “Transparent” about my obsession with series resistance ...

My original post was nothing but an attempt to offer some incite on matching the metallurgy of the power cord to the wall outlet for a better compatibility

Any body that can afford Elrod Diamond series and PAD 25th anniversary certain has the ware with all to move above Hubble and Pass Seymour

When I stumbled upon the Receptilock I was intrigued by the advanced looking body shell which looks like ground up purpose built and intoxicated by the low resistance and grip numbers vs the other well known outlets

So why my obsession with low series resistance ... isn’t resistance equated with the DC side ... if we were talking about AC current ... wouldn’t we refer to the opposing force against the signal as “Impedance” and not Resistance

With my very limited knowledge I’m guessing that if you know the L/C/R values you can calculate Impedance ... and if you held the L and C values dead fixed in place and varied the R value ... then Impedance would swing in the same direction as series resistance ... If the resistance goes up and L and C are held constant ... wouldn’t impedance go up and vice versa

Let me ask this .. if series resistance rises does impedance also rise and do I want a power deliver component with a high or higher Impedance or a low or lower impedance for current delivery
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