This one is pretty tricky. Some Class A/B amps only run Class A up to a VERY FEW watts. The better ones will do at least 10 to 50 watts, depending on design and construction. Be forewarned though that a "real" Class A or richly biased Class A/B will run HOT. You will need very adequate ventilation at the minimum. 130* to 150* F at the heatsink is not that unusual when idling. Don't try stuffing the amp into something with closed sides or backing, especially if it has side mounted heatsinks like Krells, Thresholds, Perreaux's, etc... As to a low power amp being able to drive a difficult load as well as a high power amp, that has little to do with what class of operation it runs in. A well constructed amp will drive just about ANY load as long as your not expecting to raise the roof all the time. I've used an amp rated at 40 wpc Class A( Forte 1A ) to drive 82-83 db speakers to good sound pressure levels without any problems. While this set-up would never really "jam" at rock concert levels, it worked fine for most "normal" listening. On the other hand, the same speakers used with a MUCH more powerful Class A/B Bryston 4B would occasionally bring the clipping indicators into action. While the Bryston was louder, it never came anywhere near sounding as good as the Forte' did at lower levels. Sean >