So what sub are you using for your Home theater?

Here's a sub you might consider:

http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/svs_2531pcplus.htm

I do not run a subwoofer at all in my system, but my mains can put out enough bass that adding a sub would decrease my bass output and response by bleeding the LFE track from my mains. I just run all channels as large and feed the LFE back into the mains.

What I did add for more effect was add an Odyssee motion simulator by D-BOX Technologies. It is the most amazing piece of home theater equipment on the market today. In addition to adding the bass effects of shaking the room, it can even give you the G-force sensations you would experience when riding in a car or the rolling waves you get when being on a boat.

The information on it is right here:
http://www.d-box.com/html_en.html

As far as the best sub, there is no sub in the world that can do what the Odyssee can. At some point, more bass isn't going to give you the effect you are looking for anymore than a projector with greater light output will make up for a lack of resolution or inaccurate colors.

The Odyssee has a response curve from 0Hz to 100Hz and can hit with 2G's of force. The XL system I have at home can lift 1.2 tons with as much ease as lifting one pound. And unlike tactile transducers, it has its own discrete motion track. I have more bass in my sound system than anybody can ever need in a home setting (+/-2db to 15Hz. Max SPL: 141 db at 80Hz, 132db at 25Hz, 128db at 20Hz, 120db at 12.75Hz anechoic) and it just pales in comparison to what you can accomplish with the Odyssee.

Thats one heck of a hometheater setup you go there Mrpoindexter, the Odyssee is just like Disneyworld ride I was on, scared my kid so bad she cried, I loved it though.

If you want the deepest, lowest, non boomy fast bass with realistic stereo sound then look into the TacT W410 corner subwoofer. This is the best of the best, but it has no amplifier (I'm using a pair of Bryston 7B-ST amps), and it has no crossover (I'm using a Marchand active crossover). Each subwoofer has four 10 inch drivers and easily goes down to 12Hz. Fair warning... tie down everything in the room. TacT has a smaller version with two 10 inch drivers and goes down to 16Hz. Keep in mind that you will need a 47 foot wall to fully develop the 12Hz, and a 35 foot wall to fully develop the 16Hz. Each W410 costs $4,000 and the half sized subwoofers cost $2,000. You can build the enclosures yourself with plans they provide. Each driver is about $125. You can really get a good deal by getting one of their prototypes. I got the W410 sub prototype for $700 instead of the usual $4,000. The catch is that it's black with no fancy wood.

Rel Stadium III at this time, but if I had the money I would go with the Rel Studio III. I don't know of a deeper, faster, more accurate sub. The Studio III has 2 10" Volt drivers and goes down to 9Hz. You may have to double dry wall the room for it to survive. The Stentor III would also be well worth a look. The Stentor III goes down to 11Hz and the Stadium III down to 12Hz. These are very musical subs as well with versatile hook up options The Stadium III retails for $3000, Stentor III $5000 and the Studio III is $9000. Forgot to mention that the finish is beatiful on these subs. I love mine and the reason being is that the bass is as it should be and does not distract from the movie. It is quick, tight, deep and accurate. www.rel.net