Internal Speaker Wiring ??


I just had occasion to pull a driver from my Thiel 7's and was quite surprised to see what looked like a rather "wimpy" wire connecting the driver to the crossover. It made me wonder if the "weakest link" theory applied to internal speaker wiring. In other words, am I foolish to spend hundreds of dollars on amp wiring and speaker cable when there may only be garden variety wiring inside the speaker ??
x947
A good source for very nice copper wire is Axon. Their products are distributed by OrcaDesign. Parent company is JMlabs. They also handle Focal drivers, Solen/SCR caps, and all types of accessories. The wire is the softest copper available, although they do not specify purity. I have used it with good result. It is 20 gauge solid core wire. Insulation is PE I believe(may actually be PVC...). If you want teflon insulation, go to HomeGrown Audio, for 99.999% pure 22 gauge copper wire, with teflon insulation($0.39/ft, I think). But, I have found that speaker wire is much less critical of dielectric composition than interconnect. I am not sure of the price of Axon these days, but I can tell you it will be ridiculously cheap. To put it in perspective, they produce a speaker cable(Axon 8), using 8 of these conductors(+ filler/PVC jacketing). It is basically a mirror of AudioQuest speaker cable(falling between Indigo and Midnight). In construction and sound. BEST cheap speaker cable, bar none(although no audiophiles know about it). When I used to buy it, it was $1/ft!!! It may now be $2/ft. But, you are only buying one of the conductors; no filler or jacketing. So, you do the math... I can also echo the comments of those above. But, have found a good amount of success by going through the internals of a loudspeaker. I found that I came to use 17 or 19 gauge to tweeters. 15 or 13 gauge to midrange drivers. And 10 to 12 gauge to low frequency drivers(woofers/midwoofers). It is up to you, how you run the wiring internally. Early on, I went with braiding, and always stuck with it. Not to say it is the best, just my habit. One thing to bear in mind is when replacing parts on speakers(be they drivers, wire, or crossover components - ESPECIALLY crossover components), be patient. Allow them the proper time to run - in. Just like you would afford a new pair of speakers. Some of the best caps(MIT/Rel) sound absolutely horrible out of the chute. Leaving one with an enormous case of buyer's regret/panic. But, after a few weeks, there is no comparison. Don't panic. Just give things time. If you still feel that disappointment a month later, then you can say the change was for the worst. And, it is always a good idea to keep the old parts. Just in case... Good Luck!
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I have tried to get my speaker rewired and my amplifiers modified at a few different places and they refused to do it everytime. All for the above mentioned reasons. It happened enough to scare me not to even try.
Hey Bob, not to change the thrust of this thread, but what Klipsch do you have ? I have a rather long list of mods that i've used on dozens of Klipsch speakers that many others have followed with great success. I know that at one point in time it was a relative "staple" on the Klipsch bulletin board amongst those modding the older style models. You can start off small and work your way into the various mods, as it does get quite in-depth. Email me and we can get more specific. I'll have to dig the info back up though, so be patient. As to Trelja's recommendation of Axon 8, i have used / recommended this for several years now if someone is on a budget. It is much better than the large gauge "monster" type stuff that sells in the same appr. price range BUT should NOT be wired as they would lead you to believe going by the color codes. The cables performance can be greatly improved by using another method. I had posted this info over on AA quite a long time ago with several people responding that it did noticeably improve their opinions of it. If someone is running this, contact me via email and i can go into details. Coincidentally, this cable does not work bad with Klipsch speakers either. They like solid wire MUCH better than stranded wire as a general rule. Sean >
Sean these are classic Belle Klipsch circa 1978 with original metal horns. At $4500/pr. yet they're not even considered audiophile grade spk's (others' opinions; I obviously disagree) but I covered that in a previous thread & had other supporters, but no arguments. I will certainly be in contact & am gratetful for y'all sharing your knowledge & experiences. Klipsch bulletin board? I must find out about that!
Liz: yes those "Henry-things" are inductors all right; ROFL from your description, but not laughing AT ya ok?
I love my horns too, despite their acknowledged colorations which I'm hoping to tweak on. I already bought the Dynamat & lamb's wool & Kimber wire, but then I went on-hold as explained above. As an engineer I'm certainly a confirmed tweaker; by nature I just can't help it.