RB-300:help ;I think I'm wacked


This thing cracks me up. I just replaced my old immedia rpm arm with my rb-300. Now, I know it sounds good, I knew that. But yet it still blows my mind, enough to make me laugh uncontrollably, like when I eat chicken from the barbaque and it taste better than I can comprehend.
And here is more to laugh at. Not only are these things all over used, but the most expensive rega arm is 1000 bucks. ONLY 1000 bucks. Brand new retail.
O.K., forget about price. I would like your help in taking this thing to the limit. I have already done the following; rewired with a single run of cardas from cartridge directly to M. Yee phono parked right along side of table, added weight to the counter weight, not much, (about 50 percent of origional small weight), and backed off the spring pressure as to not have it touch or bind (can't have that, right?), and stuffed the arm with foam, and replaced the silicone insert at the headshell, you know the one, the one those origional cheesy wires come out of.
Does anyone know of any more succesful, or popular mods that have ever been done? Any different ones? Any experience with different wire? Nothing is too rediculas for me. I wonder if this arm might eventually become close to the best possible. Sound absurd?
basement
I prefer the OL method of coupling the end stub to the arm. This coupling method actually causes a tuned de-coupling of the vibrations which may excite the end stub and counterweight. By doing this, the overall amplitude of the vibrations is lessened because the high mass items are de-coupled from the tube/bearing. It also allows the rigid coupling of the counterweight to the stub, so they act as a single mass, instead of letting the heavy counterweight vibrate on the rubber ring/plastic stub. This changes the basic design of the Rega arm, which uses direct coupling of the stub, and de-coupling of the counterweight via the rubber ring. Any time that something as heavy as the counterweight is allowed to get moving, it is going to transfer large amounts of that movement to the surrounding parts. This is why the rigid attachment, tuned de-coupling, and coupled counterweight/end stub is a good combination. As has been said before, "Rega made one of the best arms in the world, when they made the 250. They just didn't finish it."
The torque of the stub is importand to the tuning of the coupling. It changes the resonance characteristic of the coupling. The same is true with the tightness of the main nut that holds the arm base to the plinth. Too tight sounds dead, too loose allows information loss, and unstable mounting. There is a very musical "moderate tightness" that this nut has to be tightened to, by ear. It never needs to be more than "finger tight". No wrench is needed.
I have tried all kinds of counterweights and attaching methods at all different stages of mods. The rubber ring method is crap at any stage. However, interestingly enough, a pair of rubber o-rings around the circumference of the counterweight works well at any stage of mod for a 300. You can try this out with a rubber band wrapped around the counterweight, as an experiment. This will work, but the o-rings are just as good and look a hell of alot more acceptable. And they are only about 75 cents each. The OL end stub with the Expressimo Heavyweight counterweight is the best combo, at any stage, and will give you the most increase of any mod you can do to that arm. If you are laughing out loud now, just wait till you do this combo to your arm. You will be laughing hysterically, that you thought you were doing great before. The total will be under $200, and is worth every penny of it. Since you already have re-wired the arm, this end stub and Heavyweight is all you need to take that arm as high as it can go. A little damping here and there, depending on the cartridge used, and you have an arm that really never needs to be traded-in, unless you are "going for broke" and want to spend big bucks. And you would need a really great table to reap the benefits of any more arm than a fully modified Rega. I can't remember what table you have, but if it is not a $5k plus TT(or equivalent performance, like a Teres) then you have no need for any more tonearm than you've got. Unless you want to get a 250 to do the mods to instead. If it were me, and I already had a re-wired 300, I would just mod it up and be done with it.
TWL....My god... my head is spinning. I have to get busy with my 300... I thought it sounded good already... Now I have to check the tightness of the base on the plinth, get a heavyweight...go to home depot for some felt and o rings..
rewire the arm.. I am going to be busy next weekend!!
You should consider making your own flavor of Tonearm..
The TWL Ultimate Analog Arm !!
Thanks,
Joe
We don't really have to do that Joe. Origin Live has already done that for us. The Silver Tonearm and the Rega mods are great for all of us that want great products at a reasonable cost.
OK, great thread; glad I found it. Here is my situation. I have just purchased a used Rega 25 that is coming shipped with a RB900 arm. After reading up on the mods for the 300 series arms (specifically the OL end stub and Expressimo Heavyweight) I am wondering if I should a) sell the 900 and mod a 250, pocketing the difference; b) mod the 900 with the OL and Expressimo Hweight; or c) sell the 900 and purchase an OL Silver...

Assuming I decide to mod the 900 (I may also purchase a 250 to mod for kicks), is there someplace in the states that I can purchase the OL stub and Expressimo weight?

Associated equipment:
Rega25
Grado Sonata (I know, I know, I may get hum, but previous owner had no issues)
Gold Aero DB-45
Classe CA151 or Unison Research Aria S2
Sonus Faber Concertos w/ sf stands (shot and sand filled)
Cabling is Transparent Super but getting ready to demo a Nordost setup.

Thanks for the insight.

-twylie
Okay, Twylie, I've been down this road, and helped alot of others down it too.

First, your RB900 is a very good arm, I wouldn't knock it.

Second, the modded RB250 will outperform it at half the price.

Third, the OL Silver tonearm will knock them both in the dirt.

Okay, now we know the rankings, so what do we do?

If you want a OL modded RB250, which is called the OL-1, you should buy it already done. It will cost the same if you do it yourself, and you can be sure it's done right if you buy it from OL. The end stub has a special torque setting, and must be done right. Also, it is possible to injure the bearings if you don't know how to do it. Just get the OL-1 arm already done if that arm is what you want.

No sense in having your RB900 modded because you can get the OL-1 for half your arm's cost, and the OL-1 will outperform a fully modded RB900, due to the presence of the spring loaded VTF adjuster on the 900, that is not present on the RB250. That's the difference.

Buying the OL Silver tonearm is the best thing you could do, because it outperforms nearly anything, and costs a little less than your RB900 does. It is a little more money than the other options, though.

That being said, there are some things that will improve the sound of any of these arms, regardless of their state of modification or price. These are the Expressimo Audio HeavyWeight counterweight, and VTA adjuster. The OL Silver already has a VTA adjuster included. The Heavyweight is about $90, and is worth every penny, for all of these arms, including the OL Silver. VTA adjustment is mandatory, so you have to get one of those.

Now I will shamelessly plug my own product. On the A'gon classified, under Analog, you will see an ad for the HiFi Rega tonearm upgrade. You can read all about it on there.And see the photos of it on my OL Silver tonearm w/Heavyweight. I invented it right here on the Audiogon forum, and had Audiogon members do the testing. All were ecstatic about the improvement levels, and there were no negative comments at all. It will put any of these tonearms into the top league, sonically. This thing works, and it works well. It may look simple and inexpensive, but it will do more to elevate the performance of your arm, than any other single mod you can make. It is worth every penny of the cost, for the performance increases, even if it is only a set of simple weights. After all, the Heavyweight is $90, and it is only a simple weight also.

If you get an OL Silver, a Heavyweight, and the HiFi mod, you will have an arm that is in the State-of-the-Art category for under $1k. That is what I did, and is what I own, and I can categorically state that this is the best tonearm I have ever heard, bar none.

Also, get rid of the Sonata, and get a Shelter 501. If that is too much money, get a Denon DL103R from Martin on the Audiogon classifieds for $230. I use this cartridge myself, and it is a mind-blower on the modded OL Silver. It has .27mv output, so you need to have about 60-65db of gain in your MC phono stage(or a step-up transformer). You can probably sell your used Sonata for more than the DL103R will cost new. The DL103R will stomp the Sonata into the dirt. And it won't have susceptibility to hum like the Grados do. It will work on all the arms we discussed here.

This is the ticket for the "best bang for the buck" arm/cart setup in all of audio. If you work it right, and sell your other arm/cart, you can probably get into this setup for less than $250, out of pocket.