alternate method of bi-wiring

As the woofer has been "pushed" forward from the amplifier, the suspention pulls it back to rest at dead center. The action of the coil being brought back through the magnent causes kick back voltage that is introduced in the cross over and relayed to the tweeter. Bi-wiring eliminates this because it puts the amp inbetween the electrical connections of the drivers thus grounding out the voltage.(this is how I understand it) By seperating the 2 sets of wire instead of a bi-wire cable I would think you could keep things cleaner.

If you are using jumpers, you are not bi-wiring. Only one path is carrying the signal from the amp.

Pm,

In most situations, double bi-wire, using the same cable on HF and LF would be best. You should borrow some cables or buy some with 30day trial offers and experiment for yourself.

Sugar, yup, i moved my speakers closer together by about 6 inches. Before they were about 8 ft apart. I don't have them toed in. I feel this ruins the imaging.

There is not right or wrong answer. It really depends on the speakers which placement is best whether closer or toe'd in, etc; as well as the shape of the room. Everyone needs to figure it out for themselves.

It is amazing how this confusion persists. I checked around and Shotgun is where you run a whole cable for the positive terminal and a whole cable for the negative terminal. This is why you hear of Shotgun on non-biwire speakers. Double biwire is one cable for the highs (plus and minus) and one cable for the lows (plus and minus). To run shotgun biwire you need four cables: One for highs/plus, one for high/negative, one for lows/plus and one for lows/negative.

All speaker manufacturers I checked use this terminalogy except Synergistic Research. The call their standard biwire cable configuration Shotgun. No wonder folks are confused, even some companies don't agree, or don't know what the rest of the industy is using for terminology.