Dedicated Circuit wire alternatives?


Hey. I've been through the archives and found that the general concensus is that Belden 83803 is the wire of choice for dedicated circuits. At $2 a foot it's pretty pricey considering I would need 100 feet for just my amplifier line.

1) Does the analog/digital line need to be 12 gauge or can I use 14 gauge 83753?

2) Are there any cheaper alternatives (other brands maybe) that offer the same noise rejection traits for less momey? Romex doesn't seem to work as my equipment is the only thing plugged in to it's current line and I can hear the effects of the refridgerator turning on.

Thanks!

leo.
leoturetsky
The Belden 83803 is a 12 gauge, two conductor tinned-stranded copper with ground. It's claim to fame is the copper braid which serves as a shield.

The specifications certainly are impressive, but since I have not tested it, I don't know if it outperforms traditional 12 gauge solid copper Romex. Or if the copper braided shield is the magic ( if any ).

The key here at least in your case, seems to be the shield. Another option is plugging the offending items into something like Magnum Line suppressors by Electronic Specialists of Mass.

I have my microwave, refrigerator, air conditioning system, computers and alarm system all plugged into Magnum suppressors. The suppressors make audio equipment sound bad when used to isolate the stereo, but used on the offending gear, it is not audible, except that it cures the problems.

Good news is when you move, all the isolators move with you to apply to the next group of appliances that are "bugging" your stereo.

Last, traditional 12 gauge Romex is improved by making a separate ground for the stereo runs. When you lift the ground (within the Romex) turn the ground back and clip it off at the wall receptacle end. Leave the other end attached to the neutral bar in the service (breaker) panel.

This serves as a partial shield at no charge. Another shied is traditional conduit. This would be the metal type and not the PVC.

Installing conduit and traditional Romex may cost less than the expensive shielded Belden, and in some cities improve your fire rating, qualifying you for lower insurance rates.

If these efforts do not lower the noise floor sufficiently, a package of Quiet Lines will make everything sound better and again, are portable.
Sounds like you have a bad capacitor in your fridge or it is on the same phase as the stereo and it should be on the other phase.....Go with 10ga Romex and use all that inductance as a filter and run separate lines for digital and analog making sure the phase is the same as well as on the opposite phase from the appliances....
Sounds like you have a bad capacitor in your fridge or it is on the same phase as the stereo and it should be on the other phase.....Go with 10ga Romex and use all that inductance as a filter and run separate lines for digital and analog making sure the phase is the same as well as on the opposite phase from the appliances....
Tinned conductors typically tend to lend a very "edgy" sound to the upper midrange, i.e. this is what is used in many "ribbon" cables in SS gear. Replacing the "ribbon cables" in many SS components with better quality copper wire gets rid of the "SS glare" that so many folks complain about.

With that in mind and since so many people appear to hear the effect of power cords on their systems, i would think that the tinned copper conductors of the aforementioned Belden would be a BAD thing. I am STRICTLY guessing here though as i have no first hand experience with it.

I agree with Albert and Bob and suggest using good basic wiring, running a dedicated ground and having it all installed in a shielded carrier ( conduit, aluminum flex tubing, etc... ). As mentioned, pay attention to which phase or leg of the breaker / fuse box that you're tieing into. Run seperate lines for the amp, analogue components, digital components, etc... The heavier the wire, the better. This is especially true for the amplification circuit with the others being less critical due to less current draw. Sean
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How do I wire my new lines out of phase? Albert, I don't understand what you mean about lifting the ground within the Romex? How would I run a separate ground then?

Please excuse me if these questions are dumb (or scare you). I spent two years as an EE/CE major and regularly work on my car's DC system but I have no practical experience with house wiring (being that this is my first house).

Rcrump, I definitely have a bad something or other in the fridge. Until I replace it, it will provide a good benchmark for the power line changes to my audio gear.

Thanks!