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Twisted or Straight?

I searched Audiogon for info on inductance and capacitance. From an excellent post by Sean on March 24, he explains that inductance increases with wire spacing ant that capacitance increases as wires move closer together. Therefore, a twisted pair raises capacitance as contact between wires is increased. On the other hand, I'm a bit confused in that I thought winding wire would increase inductance.
Here is my question: For an ac power cable running from the panel box to the outlet, would it be better to run twisted wire or straight (i.e., parallel) wire? Specifically, I'm referring to twisting the hot, neutral and ground vs. having them run parallel? I've read strong preferences for both. Per Subaruguru's post, straight romex increases inductance and allows unwanted high frequencies to roll off. Other posts suggest that twisted is better. Please help me sort this out since I am running dedicated lines to my stereo. Thanks in advance.
ozfly
marakanetz's avatar
marakanetz
5,473 posts
 
Audioengr, Nice to see your page! What is the overall inductance impact on 12AWG 2m power wire that passes 60Hz from the wall?

X(reactance) = sqrt(2*pi*60Hz*L)

In this formula L is in microHenries range and reactance on 60Hz is just tens of miliohms so the voltage drop due to inductance is realy measurable. The AC deviations are much higher than the voltage drop due to the inductance isn't it?

After all how the low-inductive power cord will be different from high-inductive one if the bottom line is that the signal is being rectified and decreased and sometimes internally stabilized.

What anywhay the good quality power cord can do except reducing the noise, microphonics and AC impact?
bob_bundus
1,834 posts
 
Without even questioning the scientific reasoning & recommendations of cable designer Mike VansEvers I went with the twisted 10awg THHN solid copper, installed in grounded Greenfield (flexible metal conduit) for shielding. This works so well that I haven't even bothered to try out anything else so I can't actually compare, but can attest to my own very satisfactory results.
Mike told me to tape all 3 conductors together, then clamp one end of the bundle in a vice & the other end in a variable speed drill chuck. I aligned the printing on all 3 conductors in the same direction before twisting them up. It winds up like a big spring & then unwinds somewhat when the drill is powered off, so I then exchanged ends & better re-twisted the remainder. The load end is now terminated with a Wattagate 381 outlet, which from a sonic standpoint completely obliterated the 20A industrial Leviton outlet that was previously in place.
glen's avatar
glen
714 posts
 
And don't forget the Isolated ground rod (Star configuration of course), ceramic fuse box with glass fuses, I.G recptacles (Hospital grade minimum) Isolation transformer, Isolated generator, Isolated sub panel (with oversized feeders) U.P.S. battery backup, Oversized neutral, oversized ground, isolated ground, dirty ground, dedicated neutral, #6 copper wire (Beldon shielded cable) Industrial grade 3 phase service with bolt on breakers. Twenty seven dedicated 120 volt circuits and three ninty amp 240 volt circuits (just in case)

Did I miss anything? :^)
bob_bundus
1,834 posts
 
no - never use glass fuses they sound terrible.
Ceramic is the only way to go, but I have a feeling Glen that you don't subscribe to any of this nonsense. Well neither did I, until I heard it for myself. I'll never go back.
glen's avatar
glen
714 posts
 
Actually Bob I do subscribe to some of it :^)
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