Best MC for a Linn/Syrinx

Hi Johnnantais,
The Linn/Syrinx is about to be fitted with --- a Grado Platinum Reference - makes for convenience as this can be plugged into the mm stage on my amp & the xerxes can be fed thru the seperate phono stage.
the Linn does not come close to the Xerxes
I just fitted a zyx mc to the xerxes & the motor died.
I am wondering about fitting an Origin live DC motor kit - the toplate on my xerxes is 'sagging' so I am attempting to have a new one manufactured from acrylic sheet & will either remove or add mass to keep it the same weight as the original mdf toplate - hopefully meaning the suspension will still work as intended.
Since the new plate can be made to suit, I intend to mount it to the base and open out the hole for the pulley - origins instructions to screw to the toplate make no sense as this is in direct oposition to the original design IMO !
I will let you know how things progress.

I may try my acoire on the Syrinx but adding the mass ring means the lid will foul the arm - I may just sell the Linn & but a Lenco !
Rgds Simon

Thanks for the update, Simon! Sorry to hear about your problems re. the Roksan, one of the few truly musical high-end 'tables out there! I have a suggestion for the new top-plate: machine a new one from Finnish Birch-ply, in my opinion and the opinion of various experts (for what that's worth) better sonically than MDF anyway, easier to machine, cheaper to buy, and also sonically superior to acrylic (which has a signature: bye bye mid-bass; bye-bye resonant signature of instruments!). Also, it is much stronger (being alternating sheets of hardwood glued in a special Finnish formulation of cross plys), should not sag, and can easily be painted, stained and varnished. It should also match the mass/weight of the original MDF sheet closely.

As to the sound of the Linn/Grado, the Grado does not like high-mass tonearms, losing much of its potential energy and detail in such arms. So don't give up on the Linn! Of course, the Roksan should kill it in most areas anyway, but you can get a better match for the Linn-Syrinx pair.

Keep the Grado, keep the Linn, AND buy a Lenco! But put a low-mass arm on the Linn (Grace or SME 3009 or Black Widow), and put the Syrinx on the Lenco, with the Acoire. Have fun!

Over here, I have just bought a NOS Audio Technica 1009, and this beauty (high mass) makes the big SMEs look like crap when it comes to fit'n finish. Very substantial, removeable headshell (with the strongest/finest attachment I've yet seen for one of these, and an absolutely stunning headshell), and it's so user-friendly! It's going on my up and coming zebra-stripe beauty.

Keep me posted as to your Roksan-Linn-potential-Lenco adventures. My Lenco-Decca combo currently has an Audio-Technica OC9 on it, and it sounds glorious.

Oops, Simon, I was cruising around and tripped over the information that the Syrinx, despite its imposing looks, is a low-mass design. Perhaps you don't have the following info at http://www.n.mackie.btinternet.co.uk/documents/superarms.txt, to let you get the most our of your arm.

Regards,
John

Hi John,
Thanks for all that. The Grado sounds very nice on the Linn.
The arm is indeed one b--r of a thing to set up !
It is very musical and I may try the acoire - not until the arm has been re-wired though - the originals are a dogs breakfast.

As to the xerxes, I have stripped it down & will take your advice re the material for the toplate - seems easier all round & probably best as you say.Not sure on the replacement motor or a dc kit - price will probably be the issue.
Thanks, I'll keep you posted.

Rgds Simon

Of course, the best motor out there is the one on the Lenco...But since the Roksan motor's peculiar mounting (free to roam to eliminate belt-wow via its spring), will you be able to spring-load a different motor as well? This is a large part of the reason the Roksan sounds so good: an oblique approach at getting more of the speed stability a good idler-wheel drive can give you ("This advertisement brought to you by..."), as the rotating motor casing eliminates much of the belt-reaction which plagues belt-drives in general. To change the motor is to interfere with the central design aspect of the Roksan's sound. I would simply call Roksan for a new motor, which has got to be cheaper than the OL motor (buy a Lenco and do it right instead!), and perhaps wiser too. Just me being cautious.

Regards,
John...
And Lenco!