YYZ, are those your initials, or are you a Rush fan, or have you an affinity for Toronto Intl. Airport? :-)
I live in the Bay Area, too, and share your view that a SP is a MUST. While I have not tried the VD PC's, I have lived very happily with a Stealth for about 6 months. One thing first. Allow at LEAST 200 hours breakin time before attempting to assess any changes you introduce into your system. The Stealth takes forever and three Sundays to breakin, but the time waiting is well worth spent.
I don't think the Stealth is particularly sensitive with regard to PC's between it and the wall outlet. The more important PC's are between the Stealth and your components (a view shared by AM, BTW). That said, there are obvious improvements over the stock PC supplied with the Stealth (and not least of which you will find by upgrading your component PC's, too).
I tried a few combinations with the PC's I currently have and a few others I've sold. I wound up using a HT ProAC11 between the Stealth and my cryoed Hubbell outlet. Then, I used my "better" PC's between the Stealth and components. When comparing the ProAC11 in that position to a Synergistic Res. Master Coupler, Audience Power Chord, PS Aduio Lab II, and a FIM Silver, I found little difference, so I used the ProAc11, it being cheaper.
I live in the Bay Area, too, and share your view that a SP is a MUST. While I have not tried the VD PC's, I have lived very happily with a Stealth for about 6 months. One thing first. Allow at LEAST 200 hours breakin time before attempting to assess any changes you introduce into your system. The Stealth takes forever and three Sundays to breakin, but the time waiting is well worth spent.
I don't think the Stealth is particularly sensitive with regard to PC's between it and the wall outlet. The more important PC's are between the Stealth and your components (a view shared by AM, BTW). That said, there are obvious improvements over the stock PC supplied with the Stealth (and not least of which you will find by upgrading your component PC's, too).
I tried a few combinations with the PC's I currently have and a few others I've sold. I wound up using a HT ProAC11 between the Stealth and my cryoed Hubbell outlet. Then, I used my "better" PC's between the Stealth and components. When comparing the ProAC11 in that position to a Synergistic Res. Master Coupler, Audience Power Chord, PS Aduio Lab II, and a FIM Silver, I found little difference, so I used the ProAc11, it being cheaper.