Absolute top tier DAC for standard res Redbook CD

Bill-K : my pleasure. I was getting a bit fried by the end of my initial rounds. But with a nice break, I'm enjoying it again. By typing these, it really helps me to organize my thoughts and create the most objective findings I can.

I look forward to next week. And I really look forward to getting my ODSE.

I'll keep all posted.

I encourage Steve from Empirical to report on some of his upcoming upgrades. I don't want to say anything as I'm sure I'd screw up the technical stuff.

I see the APL has two fuses......changing these to better ones (unless it comes with seriously good fuses) can raise the sound level considerably. Also damping the lid with weight and different kinds of feet/mounting can make a world of difference as well....Sometimes removing the lid opens up the sound. How about a few WA Quantum stickers on the DAC chip and power supply caps?...works for me (you can remove them and reuse them...they do no damage). If there are undamped heatsinks inside then damping them with EAR SD40AL will make the unit way more palpable and real. It takes time to get the best out of a component. I know, I am just too tweaky....hey...I like it!

Alex- Are the fuses top tier audiophile grade? Do you think upgrading is worthwhile? I welcome your input and comments as I did Steve during my eval of the ODSE.

I do think some weight on top might help with resonance. The feet seamed appropriate, although I was blown away at the improvement upper tier Stillpoints made on my amps!!!

This goes back to my tweak/tube roll vs no tweak issue.
I am trying to compare stock kits to stock kits, just to keep things simpler. The very valid argument is that practically no piece of equipment couldn't benefit from some tweaking/tube rolling and that unless I make every effort to squeeze the last ounce of performance out of each unit I am not giving it a fair chance to win. My answer was and is that the stock unit should perform as intended by its designer as sold. It would make a comparison nearly impossible. My ODSE is stock and sensational!! Could a tube rolled, super tweaked Lampy Big 7 sound better then my stock ODSE? Maybe. But I don't want to go to the Dark Side, or forever will it dominate my obsessive compulsive need to continuously tweak and roll.

I have accessorized with power conditioners and cables, top tier interconnects and speaker wire, and a great rack. My biggest tweak needs to be a better room.

That all said, a weight of some kind on top of the DSD-S to help control resonance is easy and a great suggestion and I will try it.

To all readers - I found some scuba diver vinyl covered lead weights in 1,2,3,4 and 5 pound sizes.

Opinions on what size to buy, and how many (thinking 3 or 4).

Or is there a more audiophile appropriate solution that also helps treat EMI/RFI, emits a tachyon particle deflector shield and increases my Midi-Chlorian count?

I figure they are good to have in my box of accessories. And everyone needs more Midi-Chlorians!!!

Matt,

Thank you for a nice initial write up, and for nice suggestions about the finalized packaging and looks!

Few things, if I may:

1. The unit was double-boxed, but I've asked my brother to unpack it so you can see it with the white printed box. Maybe you noticed that there was no shipping labels or any such marks on the box.

2. We have sleeves coming up for covering the entire unit with the company logo on them, but they did not arrive on time, sorry about that.

3. The foam pieces that hold the two sides of the DSD-S are tested well, so there will be no damage of the unit, even if you throw it UPS style from 3 meters above ground. :-) Of, course, it is always possible to add more foam so it looks even more secure, this is not a problem.

4. Honestly, I find it very surprising that the DSD-S sounded harsh on the top in your system. Maybe it is a good idea to try it with different cables, hopefully not Silver, and preferably non-shielded (or lightly shielded). Experiments with the RCA and XLR outputs are desirable, as well as trying the DSD-S direct to your amplifiers. The other thing is alternating between DSD64 and DSD128 modes and see which one you like better. As I've mentioned in the instructions, DSD128 is cleaner, while DSD64 is more rounded, that can be helpful with some bright recordings, for example. Finally, this DSD-S has barely 200 hours on it, so it may need more, especially after being shipped overseas and not played for several days, as you pointed out already.

I find your comments very valuable, thanks again!

Best,
Alex Peychev
APL Hi-Fi