Sound Lab A-1 & the Ultimate differences

I sell Sound Labs, and have recently heard current-generation Millennium-1's (A-1 equivalents) and Ultimate-1's, with the same amplifier and source material, though in different rooms. There are differences. The Ultimates do seem to go a bit deeper in the bass, and but the main difference was in the soundstaging. The M-1's are quite decent in this department (especially in depth of image) but the ultra-rigid metal frame U-1's throw a very palpable no-room-boundaries kind of soundstage that I simply haven't heard before or since. So yes, there are real differences, which may or may not be worth the extra ten grand or so.

The difference is really n the lower octave. Having said that I will add that even the rigid metal frame is not enough to totally contain the energy of the speaker when playing lower bass information. As albert will most likely verify you can improve things still further by adding some ballast weight to the transformer boxes. I have about 80 lbs of lead shot resting on mine and have filled the frame tubes with sand. This has added a noticable increase in delicacy and defintion to the very low end as well as marginally improving the imaging overall.

90493, I too use lead ballasts on my Soundlabs. I have three 25 pound bags of #7 lead shot wrapped in cloth and black gaffers (cloth) tape on each speaker. I also had a machine shop turn some steel cylinder stock into precisely the same leg diameter as the Soundlab. Adding about 2 and a fourth inches to the rear legs, allowed me to remove the aluminum Mod Squad tiptoes, and replace them with Simply Physics Delrin and Stainless steel feet. The Simply Physics feet can be adjusted to within a few thousands of an inch, while maintaining contact with the speaker frame. They do not "unscrew" away from the base, leaving an air gap. This added rigidity, and the ability to use a laser pin and bubble level, allowed me to precisely align the Ultimates for perfect imaging in my environment. As with all speakers and systems, its the little stuff that is so much trouble, that adds up and pays off.

HI Albert
I did the same only went the low-tech route and used steel washers to span the gap between the cone and the chassis. I like your approach better: better adjustability, but I was in a hurry. What can I say? Have you, by chance, ever had to re-tighten your panesls with a heat gun?

Yes, I called Brent at Soundlab and ask for the brand and model number of the heat gun that they use. Then I got the setting on the dial that they set the panels with, and marked that number with a Sanford Sharpie. Now if my speakers get cranky from the weather or excessive movement, I flash tighten them, using the same method the factory uses. The main problem with doing it after they are in the home is worrying about the grill cloth (spandex). It discolors and burns faster than the screen itself, if extreme care is not taken in the process.