Best Tweeter for DIY project

Anyone have any experience with Raven or Cabasse tweeters? Both have VERY high sensitivity(96-98 dB/2.83V). Do they exhibit any tendency toward brightness, breakup(they shouldn't), harshness, etc(all the problems that soft domes solve). I stopped building speakers right about the time both became bigger in this country. This is my main concern for these tweeters. One day I will build a high sensitivity speaker, specifically designed for SET amplification. Kimon Bellas(of OrcaDesign - US parts division of JMLabs) is responsible for bringing Accuton, Cabasse, Focal(don't like their tweeters), and Raven into the US. Hard to find a better guy in audio than "Frogman". The Accuton is a delightfully smooth sounding tweeter. A serious concern is the lack of durability of the Al2O3(alumina) cone. Very brittle, and not able to be repaired. Although, if do have one break, you can buy a replacement cone, as opposed to a whole new tweeter.

Try the Seas Excel Millenium if you can bear the thought of a less expensive reference tweeter. Most people think the more expensive product usually wins, but this is not always the case. Its virtues are see through transparency, clarity and are virtually non-fatigueing. Tweeter on the Harbeth Monitor 40 look familiar, you got it, only that one is modified by Harbeth of course. Still a heck of a bargain at about $145 each, in my opinion.

Hello: I am completing a speaker project right now with the Raven R1 (older version). So far the results are mixed with the sound very clear and extended, but a little bright for my tastes. However, it may be a midrange problem more than a tweeter problem. Yes, the output is very high, but with the correct L-pad, you can control the level fairly easily. I have tried multiple crossover slopes from 6db to 36 db and from frequencies from 2000hz to 4000hz with good results. The tweeter seems to have an unlimited output that can take more power than I can. I've noticed that some very high priced speakers feature this tweeter. Raven also makes two larger ribbons that can handle the midrange also, but are very pricey.

I would say your initial results are encouraging. Especially, in light of how different a driver this is. Integration is more difficult than with a simple cone(especially) or dome tweeter. An L pad is a good start. But, once you nail the correct resistance value down, a good Ohmite(or like) 10W wirewound resistor will sound much better. Will even tame some of the brightness, if the tweeter is at all responsible. Have you tried running the tweeter without a capacitor in series? It seems that this may be one instance where the driver is well suited to handling all that is incoming. At least, it could be tried. Which midrange are you using? The crossover will take some balancing to keep the tweeter and midrange from outrunning each other. Good luck, and please keep us informed

You may consider the Dynaudio Esotar or Esotec.