Magnepan 1.6 vs Magnepan MG-1

Long ago I had MG II.

There have been quite significant improvements in recent Maggies, and the MG1.6 has benefited most. Money was not an issue when I selected MG1.6 over the MG3.6. I liked its sound just as well as the more expensive model. Tastes differ, and that's mine.

With regard to amplifier power, it is true that they benefit from high power. However, with the advent of digital power amps this does not have to cost a lot. I am using CarvePro ZR1600 amps, claiming 600 watts/channel at 4 ohms, and these amps can be bought new (with 5 year warantee) for about $840. They sound great too. Other digital amps are soon expected on the market, and some may offer similar quality at low cost.

Question.. Eldartford have you bypassed the fuses and the tweeter attenuator all together on the Maggies ? If you have changed the binding post..where did you get the uprades from? I may just send everything to the Tireguy and let him deal with it! LOL!!!!

Tireguy needs to start a mod company for the maggies! I will be one of the first in line. Tireguy when did you say you were going on vacation again ? HEh Heh Heh

Gmood1...I have been through the experience of burning up tweeter wires on my old original MG II, so I am happy to have the peace of mind afforded by the fuse.

I do use the "tweeter attenuator" which is the same thing as the "padding resistor" that other loudspeaker designs hide away in the crossover network. I like the Magnepan approach of letting you select this resistor value. If you like zero ohms, that's fine. I am using one ohm, but I often turn down the treble tone control by 2 dB, so I may experiment with 1.5 ohms.

Last week I assembled a new set of speakers for my rear channels, Odens, from Madisound. My old Dynaudios, with 5" MTM drivers are excellent, but just couldn't keep up with three MG1.6 plus subwoofers in the front. I sprung for the "premium" version of the crossover, and was impressed. Accordingly I have decided to treat the Maggies to a top-of-the-line crossover, and have just ordered $530 worth of stuff to do the deed on three speakers.

Eldartford... I couldn't help myself ..had to remove the fuses and bypass the resistor. The 2.5Rs sound like a totally different speaker.Someone needs to design a fuse that doesn't diminish the sound quality.Until then I guess I will be riding the edge of tweeter destruction. Are you going to make outboard crossovers or just replace components on the panel? May try this just not sure where to start thou. Might be easier for me to pack them up and send them to you ! HEh hee

Gmood1...After some study I have settled on the following design.

I will retain (at least for now) the original terminals and fuse holder.

I will remove all the original crossover components.
In the space of the original crossover, I will install the tweeter capacitors: three 7mfd musicaps = 21 mfd. Thus the tweeter will always be connected through its capacitor.

The woofer terminals will be connected directly to the woofer, requiring that the inductor be outboard.

The outboard inductor will be "wired into" the woofer's (biwire) speaker cable. No extra terminals involved.

I have chosen to use 3mH instead of 3.5mH. Note that the tweeter capacitor of 21mfd is changed from the original 22 mfd. This will shift the crossover frequency up slightly, and reduce the gap between tweeter and woofer that causes a dip in the overall frequency response. I am quite sure that the woofer can play a few Hz higher in my application where the Maggies are crossed over to a subwoofer at 90 Hz. The inductor will be a 10AWG air coil from Madisound. (I will try it this way, and tweek as necessary).

By the way, aren't the 2.5R three way? The MG1.6 are 2 way with a very simple crossover which makes upgrade particularly attractive.